Tamsin Burnett-Hall finds out that an all-inclusive break in Rhodes can deliver the most authentic of flavours

Looking out over the wine-dark sea as the moon lights a path across the gently lapping waves, I have to pinch myself to believe that I’m actually here in Rhodes. Only a few hours ago I was battling strike-induced transport delays in the UK, but now I’m most definitely on holiday, and before breakfast I’ll be heading for a swim in the crystal-clear Aegean for the first time in years!

In the past, I’ve spent many a Greek island holiday staying in budget studios or self-catering apartments, but now I’m well into midlife, a bit of luxury feels more of a necessity, and I’m surprised to find just how affordable a deluxe 5-star hotel stay can be with easyJet holidays. Positioned on the edge of quiet Kallithea Bay, several kilometres north of party town Faliraki, the Amada Colossos Resort is a destination where more is definitely more, but with friendly service at its heart and ecocertification to boot.

Redeveloped in 2018, the modern decor exudes serene chic, and despite there being 699 rooms in the complex it maintains a personable and intimate atmosphere, aided by the wide-open sea vistas and the landscaped grounds planted with fragrant shrubby herbs, bright bougainvillea, and orange and pomegranate trees, set off by the vividly blue sky. By day or night, the elegant 140m-long pool is the resort’s centrepiece, spanned by bridges leading to the private beach, and with ancient twisted-trunk olive trees on mini ‘islands’.

Couples and families happily coexist at the resort, thanks to cordoned-off adult areas in the restaurants and main pool (including a swim-up bar), plus a marine spa and hammam offering ultimate relaxation. Youngsters can shriek to their heart’s delight in the five-slide family waterpark located on the other side of the main hotel building, but there are also kids’ clubs for when the parents want their own much-needed chill-out break.

The culinary experience is, of course, a key part of any holiday – and one of the reasons I’ve always shied away from the commitment of full-board dining options. However, the variety and quality of the food offering at Amada Colossos has me swallowing my own preconceptions. The choice at the main buffet restaurant is truly inviting, no small achievement when catering for so many.

As well as a different culinary focus each night (fish night is particularly good), there are always Greek mezze and traditional dishes on offer – and they are the real deal, not watered-down for tourists’ palates. And despite the size of the indoor-outdoor restaurant, design touches such as modern pendant lighting, light wood furnishings and aqua tones ensure that the atmosphere is classy, not canteen (although there may well be chocolate-coated children careering around in pursuit of their next doughnut).

For slower-paced evenings when you want to be waited on, the ‘all-inclusive plus’ package adds in a dinner at each of the three à la carte restaurants: Italian, pan-Asian, and a Greek taverna, Votsala. This last is my favourite, bringing a light, modern touch to mezze, such as feather-light whipped taramasalata with dill oil, smoky chargrilled octopus on a fava bean purée, and local prawns with tomato-ouzo braised orzo, which we are encouraged to accompany with appetite-stimulating spirit tsipouro (also known as raki). It’s a good thing that our room is so close by…

As easy as it would be to spend our whole break relaxing in the resort, we don’t want to miss exploring this beautiful island. The largest of the Dodecanese, Rhodes is rich in history and ancient ruins, as well as medieval remnants of its 200-year occupation by the Knights of Saint John until the early 16th century, many of which are to be found in the old town on the northern tip of the island. Halfway down the east coast, Lindos (home of those juicy prawns) is a maze of cobbled streets and typical whitewashed Greek buildings tumbling down a hill that is topped by the Acropolis, one of the holiest sites of the ancient world.

The steep climb certainly builds up an appetite. On the recommendation of the friendly staff at the hotel, we head inland to a ‘secret’ restaurant, Paraga. Tucked away on a rustic hillside terrace in the remote village of Apollona, lunch here is truly memorable; ingredients are hyper local and prepared to old family recipes. After starting with filo-wrapped local mizithra cheese and grape preserves, the delivery of our main course is almost performance art. Beef cheek, peppers and onions have been cooked overnight in a claypot, sealed with a salt crust that is cracked open at our table (with a literal hammer); simply sensational.

Heading back, we make a final stop at Kallithea Springs, an ancient remedial bathing area. Sadly the thermal springs are no longer in operation, but it’s a true delight to visit, with intricate pebble mosaic floors and a rocky cove. As the sun sets over the hills behind us, we take a last dip amidst the reflected tones of blue and lavender pink in the shimmering sea; the perfect way to round off our day, and indeed our trip.