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Travel

Staycation: Osip, Bruton, Somerset

by Nicola Smith
Staycation: Osip, Bruton, Somerset
Images: Dave Watts

Nicola Smith and Fi Rundle ventured down Somerset’s leafy lanes to enjoy a night at a 300-year-old country inn, now reimagined as a fine dining restaurant with rooms. With a menu shaped by its farm down the road, it now boasts both a Michelin and Green Michelin Star.

Where is it?

Osip is a 10-minute drive from Bruton and just 15 minutes off the A303, yet it feels miles from civilisation, nestled amid Somerset’s ancient rural patchwork.

Osip’s whitewashed exterior
Osip’s whitewashed exterior

What’s the accommodation like?

There are four beautiful rustic-chic rooms, two of which are split level with freestanding baths and cosy seating downstairs, and huge beds and roomy ensuite shower-rooms on a mezzanine level.

What did you eat and drink?

A nine-course taste odyssey inspired by produce from Osip’s nearby farm, kicking off with freshly harvested crudités (think pretty nasturtium leaves with tiny parcels of lettuce, pine nuts and feta delivering a salty, tangy kick). Other highlights included crispy, glazed fermented potato brioche slathered with kefir cream, tomato and basil dashi; a fine slice of smoked eel with minty shiso and cool cucumber; and sweet, luxurious lobster in flaky tempura-batter, alongside a rich lobster bisque.

Courgette soup with gooseberry and spider crab
Courgette soup with gooseberry and spider crab

What is there to do?

Drive 10 minutes into Bruton, a pretty, upmarket town housing beautiful people and beautiful things, including Osip chef-owner Merlin Labron-Johnson’s other venture, The Old Pharmacy, a characteristically homely but sophisticated bistro-cum-wine bar. The trendy Hauser and Wirth contemporary and modern art gallery is also a popular haunt. Oh, and don’t bypass boutique bazaar, Rose & Lyons, which is stuffed with both practical and whimsical treasures.

Lasting memory

This is a perfect place to decompress, from the tranquil Brue room with its deep freestanding bath, vast bed and hayloft vibe, to the open fire in Osip’s low-beamed lounge, where the thoughtfully provided stash of daily papers invites you to while away the morning sipping coffee, nestled in a seamingly timeless rural sanctuary.

Sainsbury’s Magazine insider tip

 Get down to the lounge bar early. The cosy space means seating is limited, so don’t linger too long in your room if you want to secure a pew by the fire to enjoy your aperitif.

How to book

Osip has four rooms (two are split level). Prices start from £240 per night (including breakfast). The Osip dinner tasting menu is £140 (wine pairing £95). The lunch menu is £95 (wine pairing £45). To book, visit osiprestaurant.com or call 01749 987277.

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