It’s the kind of place you might stumble upon during a welly-booted stomp through the Cambridgeshire countryside, but this hidden gem offers a tasting-menu-only experience that blends relaxed charm and refined dining. 

Where is it?

Tucked away in the picturesque, historic village of Fen Ditton, The Ancient Shepherds is nestled alongside the river Cam and just three miles outside Cambridge city centre.

What’s all the fuss about?

Led by Michelin-starred chef Mark Poynton, the kitchen serves up tasting menus only (safe to say, that wasn’t a problem for us) to ensure minimal waste and an elevated dining experience. They offer a choice of three, five or seven courses, from Wednesday to Saturday, and you can also opt to take things up a notch with a paired wine flight. Best of all, many of the ingredients are sourced locally, with some grown right in the restaurant’s very own kitchen garden. Farm-to-fork indeed.

What’s the place like?

Set in a beautifully restored 16^th century pub, painted beams and rustic open fireplaces tell a story of its past, while marble-topped tables and contemporary local art add just the right touch of sophistication without losing the cosy, welcoming feel. It’s the perfect balance of elegant and laid-back, where you can enjoy fine dining without feeling out of place. Plus, there is a glimpse into the fast-paced open kitchen.

What did you eat and drink?

We start with the snacks – though calling them that feels an understatement. We tuck into little pork belly cubes flavoured with quince and Coronation-style crab in golden, crisp pastry cups. Fluffy, tear-and-share Japanese milk bread is sticky with a malt and golden syrup glaze, reminiscent of sweetened Marmite, and contrasts salty cultured butter. Meanwhile, we sip on the first of our wine pairings, a deliciously smooth and zesty Greek white.

The courses that follow include a delicately flaking fillet of cod, dusted with an umami seaweed powder and pooled with a creamy brown shrimp beurre blanc. Meltingly tender 70-day aged sirloin beef is served with a glossy red wine gravy and four delightful dollops, including a sweet onion marmalade and an apple and horseradish gel. All paired with a fruity red from Piedmont in Italy.

The cheese course is particularly creative with a layered terrine consisting of buttery Bingham blue cheese, a crumbly oatcake and sweet caramelised apple. The kind of dish you want to savour in slow motion.

I am delighted that not one, but two, exquisite desserts mean our seven-course menu ends on a high note. A delicious apricot and amaretto ice cream sandwich is far more refined than you might expect and sings of marzipan flavours, while a dark chocolate mousse tart is crowned with a cooling yogurt sorbet and a dainty tuile. A honeyed, aromatic Sauternes dessert wine rounds off the evening (and our accumulation of glasses) very well.

Your verdict?

Slick service and precise, elegant food make The Ancient Shepherds an ideal spot for a special occasion. It’s high-end dining in a surprisingly relaxed, unpretentious setting – like a little slice of Michelin-starred heaven hidden in a village pub.

Lasting memory?

The sticky, glazed milk bread which is arguably too good to share.