Travel
Staycation: Newhall Mains, Black Isle
by Fiona Gibson
From world-class cooking to a beautiful coastal cycle, Fiona Gibson and her husband Jimmy enjoyed a treat for all the senses
Where is it?
Newhall Mains is surrounded by gently undulating countryside on the Black Isle – a peninsula just a short hop over the bridge from Inverness.
What’s the accommodation like?
Gently weathered red sandstone farm buildings have been transformed into sumptuously furnished self-catering cottages and double rooms. With its supremely comfortable double king bed, soft tartan throws and elegant furnishings, our cosy en suite room is hugely welcoming after a day exploring the Isle.
What did you eat and drink?
Although the bar is stocked with an impressive array of Scottish and Japanese whiskies, it’s the cocktails that wow us. A Milk Punch Colada is crystal-clear pale yellow, with hints of fresh coconut – as far away as you can imagine from the macaroon-bar sweetness of the typical piña version. Rhubarb Rose is a gorgeous concoction of rhubarb, rose water and Champagne.
Dinner starts with warm just-baked bread and the sweetest hand-dived scallops. Jimmy is so wowed by the combination of heritage tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella that he orders it again on our second night. His Highland ribeye steak is perfectly tender, my North Sea halibut paired simply with plump Shetland mussels. A generous serving of lobster rests on a cushion of silken hand-pulled linguine. Desserts include sweet Scottish strawberries topping a dainty shortbread tart, and a rich dark chocolate ganache garnished with juicy raspberries.
What is there to do?
Rosmarkie is a beautiful golden beach, which is safe for swimming, and the pretty town of Cromarty is another highlight. Here, workers’ cottages are clustered around tiny galleries selling local art and crafts. Obviously, we have to sample a Scottish favourite, the macaroni pie (yes, that’s mac ‘n’ cheese encased in pastry). The Cromarty Bakery has a freshly baked batch, and we devour them overlooking the glittering Cromarty Firth.
Lasting memory
At nearby Chanonry Point, bottlenose dolphins are often spotted frolicking in the waves. They are the world’s biggest – the cold water here requires a thick layer of blubber. We watch, transfixed, as they leap clear of the water. ‘It’s not unusual,’ a local tells us, his telephoto lens focused upon them. ‘They really do love it here.’ And who can blame them?
Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip
The Black Isle’s gently undulating landscape is perfect for cycling – and Newhall Mains offers complimentary ebikes. It’s the perfect way to immerse yourself in the magical landscape.
How to book
The hotel is open from April to the end of October (the cottages are open in the winter season for self-catered holidays). Cottages start from £600 per night and bedrooms from £290 per night. The restaurant is open every evening to residents and non-residents, and for lunch on Sundays only. The Sunday roast menu is £35 per person for three courses. Visit www.newhall-mains.com or call 01381 632032.