A night spent in this North London local takes you to the bistros of France with the flavours of the Philippines. 

Where is it?

A seemingly nondescript shopfront on Kentish Town Road escapes obscurity with the word 'Belly' emblazoned in red above the windows, themselves steamy, signalling the full house inside – a regular feature at this much-loved neighbourhood local.

What’s all the fuss about?

Belly is another jewel in Omar Shah’s restaurant empire crown but this gleams differently to the others. It’s the first to fuse Filipino flavours with a distinct European style and offers a more elevated dining experience, with flavour combos that could be considered bonkers, brilliant or a bit of both. 
 

What is the place like?

Think French bistro style with subtle Filipino design influences. The space is small but packed with style, with just nine tables, a bar and wall seating. There's no uniform, but the staff are dressed in neutrals and black, gliding through the space dispensing knowledge of the menu as classic soul and R&B filter through the speakers. It’s cosy and cool, and the perfect space for an intimate Saturday night date. 

What did you eat and drink?

I decide to start the night with a Thai basil and lemongrass gimlet that’s zippy with lime alongside a slight savoury note on account of the added patis – the Filipino name for fish sauce. There’s that bonkers-brilliant I was talking about. I love how unique and refreshing it is.

The cured scallops ‘Bicol express’ is a spin on a classic Filipino pork stew, albeit as a starter. The fat, juicy seafood arrives bathed in creamy coconut milk, with pops of chilli, basil and annatto oil. There’s a reason this dish has gone viral. Another taste trendsetter (which they save for us especially as it sells out so quickly) is the tempura cod pandesal. A tower of crispy cod and American cheese with an ikura tartare sauce and salmon roe sandwiched between a sweet bun – think Filet-O-Fish if it won the lottery and decided to go traveling through Southeast Asia. It’s sensational. 

Our mains are still experimental with flavours but are more comforting for a blustery winter evening – the oak-smoked tinola herb chicken is warm and vibrant with ginger and capers, and the Pink Fir potatoes with kombu butter and fermented braised cabbage toyomansi complement it perfectly, the latter being strangely addictive. To finish, we tuck into the frozen custard profiterole, which brings with it the return of the patis. Here, the fish sauce works at balancing the sweetness of the pud, flowing over the crispy, chewy choux bun. I’d argue it’s an acquired taste, but one I certainly have.

Your verdict?

Belly isn’t where you go to play it safe. Take a mate or a partner who is equally as excited by new flavours and unique takes,– and prepare to wake up your tastebuds and fill your… well, belly!