Travel
Staycation: The Alfriston, East Sussex
by Rebecca Pitcairn
Rebecca Pitcairn visits The Alfriston, the latest hotel to open in Sussex’s ‘prettiest village’
Where is it?
Right of on the banks of the River Cuckmere at the foot of the South Downs, in the hotel’s namesake village, Alfriston, which is regarded one of the UK’s prettiest thanks to its Medieval architecture, independent pubs and shops and picture-postcard narrow high street. The village is a great base for exploring the South Downs Way and is just a few miles from the coast with beauty spots like Seven Sisters and Cuckmere Haven within 20 minutes’ drive.
What’s the accommodation like?
There are 38 rooms spread across the main 16th century building, 20th century extension and various outbuildings. The rooms are all named after Sussex people and places – ours, a family room, after the Ashdown Forest – and have been designed in partnership with interior designer Georgie Wykeham, who has drawn on the bohemian charm of the Bloomsbury Group that frequented these parts in the early 20th century, to deliver a laidback luxury feel. There are hand-painted ceilings and wallpapers; heavy draped, contemporary patterned curtains; and a mixture of antique and upcycled furniture with modern accents, such as quirky artwork in bobbin frames. Family rooms include an adjoining room with bunkbeds for the kids, while some suites have roll-top baths and views of the gardens and River Cuckmere beyond. While there is no mini bar in the room, a bottle of Madeira is provided for guests to have a tipple on the house, alongside tea and coffee making facilities and The Signet Collection’s signature hessian bag of biscuits hanging on the bedroom door.
What did you eat and drink?
Dinner is taken in the 1554 Brasserie (which takes its name from the date of the building), although you can also eat in the dog-friendly Godfrey Bar or garden terrace if the weather suits, while the pretty Orangery serves afternoon tea and breakfast. The menu is inspired by Great British staples with local produce is at its heart. A glass of ‘local’ wine is indeed local – Rathfinny, the wine estate partly responsible for the introduction of the Sussex Sparkling PDO, is on the outskirts of Alfriston village – while lamb is sourced from Pevensey Marshes just 10 miles away and beef from Threnchmore farm in West Sussex. Fish and vegetables are also locally sourced and we devoured the creamy trout pate and cauliflower steak, which was perfectly spiced with harissa. The focaccia with wild garlic butter using wild garlic picked locally by the restaurant team was so good we ordered second helpings, which left little room for pudding, but we did manage to share a plate of tiramisu.
What is there to do?
There’s plenty at the hotel to occupy overnighters but the variety of things to do nearby warrants a longer stay. Go for a frolic – or more serious swim – in the outdoor pool, enjoy a game of croquet on the lawn or pétanque on the dedicated pitch, book a massage and enjoy the steam room and sauna at the spa. Walking into the village takes five minutes, and there you can explore the quaint shops and pubs – The Much Ado book store is a real treasure trove for literary lovers and, if you want to head somewhere different for lunch, then The Star’s inner courtyard is an absolute delight. Take a vineyard tour at Rathfinny and pay a visit to Alfriston Clergy House – the first property to have been acquired by the National Trust.
What do I need to pack?
Walking boots if you plan to head into the Downs (they do have wellies you can borrow in the boot room) and a swimming costume to make the most of outdoor pool and spa facilities.
Lasting memory
It’s hard to beat my son’s face when he realised there was an outdoor pool (there aren’t many hotels that do so in this part of the world), but my massage with Alexandra was one of the best I’ve had and a talking point for days after.
Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip
Many people head to nearby Cuckmere Haven for iconic views of the Seven Sisters, but the carpark is busy and you have to pay. However, it’s free to park at Seaford and then it’s a lovely walk along to the coastline towards the cliffs.
How to book
Book rooms, from £150 Bed & Breakfast, at thealfriston.com.