One of three all-day-dining restaurants under the Riding House name, Riding House Bloomsbury offers a laid-back brunch within the Brunswick Centre. 

Where is it?

Balanced on the edge of the Brunswick Centre, easily spotted from nearby Bloomsbury station, Riding House Bloomsbury’s exterior offers a small glimpse of the soft modernity inside, set against all the surrounding concrete of the brutalist building.

What is the place like?

In stark contrast to all the grey outside, the restaurant is a burst of greenery, framing wooden panelling and banquet tables, exposed metal piping and vintage furnishings. It has a ‘come in and relax after a bout of shopping’ vibe.

What did you eat and drink?

A recent run of celebrations meant I was after some less boozy options, in which my companion was happy to partake. The mocktails delivered just what was needed – the elderflower and peach Bellinis were elegant and didn’t lean into the too-sweet territory that alcohol-free cocktails can sometimes visit.

Crispy courgette fritters were a home run, pleasingly paired with a vividly pink beet hummus, with chargrilled corn offering some smoky sweetness. Smashed avocado on sourdough arrived looking quite unassuming but the spicing was spot on, with a dukkah fragranced with chilli and coriander. To finish, we had to stop ourselves from ordering another batch of cinnamon brioche doughnuts. The crumb was soft, fluffy and buttery, surrounded by a spiced sugar coating, every bite demanding a dip in the toffee sauce.

The verdict?

Brunch aficionados might have seen some of this before but perhaps not done as well. The food is familiar but deliciously executed – this is a brunch that definitely isn’t brutalist, despite the building it's housed in!