Combine the city with the coast at this food-lover’s paradise, says Abigail Spooner

In Spain, we eat five meals a day,’ declares our local guide Marc at the beginning of our gastronomic tour of Girona, northern Catalonia’s largest city. As a firm believer in experiencing a holiday destination through my stomach, I’m in my element. As we wind our way through a web of narrow cobbled lanes, Gothic churches and towering Roman walls, Marc introduces us to the culinary delights of Barcelona’s lesser-known neighbour.

With sugar-coated lips, I munch a xuixo (sweetly pronounced ‘chucho’) for my second breakfast of the day – a light doughnut-like pastry typical of Girona. Leaving the aroma of freshly brewed coffee, we enter the city’s bustling main market and gawp at the vibrant abundance of produce. Marc’s local expertise takes us to quaint bakeries, top-notch chocolatiers and Ibérico ham tastings over the course of this four-hour feast for the senses. Our final stop is at restaurant Artusi, a long-standing treasure in the old town; we tuck into patatas bravassmothered in spiced aioli, earthy mushroom croquetas and seared sesame tuna alongside a glass of local red wine.

While Girona has been a delicious distraction from the coast, our luxurious hotel, Hostal de La Gavina, is set on a peninsula between two idyllic beaches on the Costa Brava. There is an air of Mediterranean old-world grandeur in the palatial reception, with its priceless antiques and marble flooring, which has been well-trodden by A-listers including Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor, Robert De Niro and Lady Gaga. From my beautiful bedroom (inlaid wardrobes, plump armchairs and crisp linen), I step outside to soak up the spectacular sea views from my very own terrace. I feel an immediate sense of calm, and if it wasn’t for our next meal beckoning I’d happily spend several hours here with a book inone hand and a glass of cava in the other. Here it’s five-star luxury all the way, and I appreciate the large modern bathroom, walk-in rainfall shower and dinky bottles of Etro toiletries. Fluffy towelling robes and slippers add the finishing touch.

For dinner we’re spoilt for choice – the hotel has four restaurants. La Taverna del Mar is perched on the beach of Sant Pol and serves up a sumptuous slice of seafood heaven. Moreishly crispy baby prawns, garlicky langoustines and fresh oysters with a delicate cucumber and apple salsa are just three of the local delights on offer. For a truly special evening, the tasting menu at the hotel’s signature fine-dining restaurant, Candlelight, is a must-try. Chef Romain Fornell, a Michelin star holder at Caelis in Barcelona, puts a creative and contemporary spin on Mediterranean classics. We hear he’s obsessed with butter (me, too!) and it’s safe to saythe trio of quenelled butters – flavoured with rosemary, sunflower and tomato – that arrives with freshly baked bread is on another level.

A crispy tempura-battered egg with a perfectly oozing yolk and the juiciest of tomatoes is one of the standout courses, just topped by an artfully presented dessert of sweet-and-salty chocolate and coffee textures, gilded with pieces of gold leaf. The service is slick and unobtrusive throughout, and a pianist fills the restaurant with a relaxing ambience.

Outside, the hotel is in an enviable position just a few minutes’ stroll from the beach, and with the help of our informative guide, Roser, we take the well-maintained Camino de Ronda coastal path. The views are simply breathtaking... we meander under pine trees, breathe in the sweet aroma of wildflowers and gaze longingly at glistening turquoise waters that lap against the rocks of secluded coves. The following two mornings, I resist the temptation to laze in bed and get up at sunrise to enjoy the same walk again, working up an appetite for the impressive breakfast buffet.

The lush, well-manicured gardens are a blissful setting for yoga with – you guessed it – sea views over the bay of S’Agaró. Downward dog and warrior pose are new to me, but local teacher Anna guides us through the class with gentle encouragement and a calming energy. I feel like I’m in the Garden of Eden and I consider taking up yoga back home, but something tells me an enclosed studio in London won’t have quite the same appeal. Wellbeing is taken seriously at La Gavina and other activities on offer include pilates, tennis and aero-yoga. I opt for further relaxation and indulge in a full-body massage in the state-of-the-art spa, followed by lengths of the large sea water pool. I’m keen to make the most of the glorious sunshine and stretch out on one of the nap-inducing poolside loungers after my swim, but on cooler days there is also a heated indoor pool, whirlpool and sauna to help fill those long, languorous days.

Garbí is the hotel’s poolside restaurant, but there isn’t any budget resort-style food on the menu. Instead, healthy Mediterranean lunch options are on offer, and we tuck into light bites, including crisp calamari and a juicy tomato salad with tuna belly. To follow, our charming waiter Paco introduces us to fideuà, a Catalan-style paella made with short spaghetti-like strands of pasta instead of rice. It arrives in a huge sharing-style pan with fresh cuttlefish, Palamós prawns (the so-called jewels of the Spanish coast) and a pot of garlicky aioli for spooning over.

Girona is often overlooked in favour of its better-known Catalonian counterpart, Barcelona, but this moodily atmospheric medieval city has a wealth of attractions, without the crowds and prices to match. With many direct UK flights to Girona, it’s easily accessible for a weekend getaway too. Combine your visit with the truly special Hostal de La Gavina on nearby Costa Brava and you’ve got the best of both worlds; the two wondrously lost in time and with culinary scenes to rival the rest of Spain. And while no one will force five meals a day on you, I’d highly recommend embracing local life through the stomach, with an espresso or glass of cava alongside.