MasterChef champion Brin Pirathapan takes on a curry house favourite, exploring how to master the classic chicken biryani recipe at home

Rice appears in cuisines and cultures around the world, from European risotto and paella to Southeast Asian nasi goreng and North American jambalaya. Yet in my eyes, one rice dish surpasses all others – it’s complex and fierce but, when done well, can be beautifully balanced and wonderfully aromatic. I am, of course, talking about the Southeast Asian staple biryani.

For me, biryani holds a special kind of nostalgia, not from everyday meals but from the celebrations of my childhood. It’s a dish designed for occasions that are special enough to require the elegance and care that goes into making such a decadent feast. Its layers are a beautiful metaphor for the countless flavours that build upon each other, creating a complex yet comforting meal.

There are countless variations, each with unique characteristics depending on origin. Persian biryanis, for example, tend to be mild and light, whereas Sri Lankan biryanis are bold, earthy and full of heat. On the surface, it may seem like just rice and curry cooked together, but when you delve into the dish, you realise just how complex it is.

What is a chicken biryani made of?

Chicken biryani is basically layering yogurt-marinated meat, fresh vegetables, fragrant spices and parboiled rice before sealing the pot and letting slow heat work its magic.

What is the secret to a good biryani?

Michelin-star chef Aktar Islam is a beacon of knowledge when it comes to balancing spices and mastering South Asian cooking. Listening to him discuss the art of making biryani underscores the patience, care and precision required to make it from scratch. It’s easy to forget, when cooking with such bold flavours, that even the fieriest, most exciting food requires precision and intricacy to perfect it.

For Aktar, flavour is paramount anda balanced masala spice blend is key, emphasising that: ‘herbs and spices should be delicate and aromatic’ and complement the ‘floral notes of fresh mint and coriander’. This is a difficult art, mastered by home cooks across generations, from Iran to India and Sri Lanka. The right combination and handling of spices is what transforms a dish into a true biryani.

What are common biryani mistakes?

While Aktar highlights flavour and balance, I believe texture is equally crucial. The meat must be tender, the onions crisp and – most importantly – the rice fluffy. This is where many first-time cooks stumble, but a few careful steps will ensure fluffy results every time. Aktar advises using long grain, aged basmati rice, essential for achieving fluffy grains that don’t clump together into a mush. We’re not making risotto or congee! Parboiling ensures the rice is cooked without becoming chalky, but overcooking risks a sticky, unpleasant biryani.

How do I cook chicken biryani?

Aktar’s final non-negotiable is the cooking method. Traditional biryani uses the ‘dum’ technique, where a dough made with a flour-and-water paste seals the lid, trapping steam to gently cook the rice and meat slowly. At home, kitchen foil or a clean tea towel under the lid is an easy way to replicate the technique, capturing condensation and steaming the rice perfectly.

What should I serve with chicken biryani?

Biryanis are traditionally served with cooling raita and a simple salad – the perfect contrast to the richness of the dish. For me, biryani isn’t just food, it’s a celebration of flavour, technique and memory – a dish that turns any occasion into something special.