Brittany’s capital city offers all the croissants, galettes and bière blonde you’d expect from a trip to the region, but delivers them with more than a touch of hipster flair. Ashleigh Arnott visits with friends for a laid-back long weekend of local produce, contemporary restaurants and vintage clothes shops

Where is it? 

Rennes sits in the east of its region, Brittany, in north-west France. It’s about two hours west of Paris by train.

What’s the city like? 

Despite there being a settlement here for more than 2,000 years, Rennes hasn’t been the epicentre of much at all for most of its existence. Which is perhaps why it has been able to stretch its wings in the past few decades. It’s now a tech jobs hot spot with a massive student population, which explains why every other history-rich half-timbered building is an enticing-looking restaurant or chic-looking clothes shop. It’s ideal for three friends taking a break from jobs and small children for the weekend, as we are. I’m personally drawn by the beer – several of the region’s best craft beer bars are in Rennes – and the weekly food market, which is the second-biggest in France (after Paris, of course).

What did you eat and drink? 

We manage three all-star dinners in as many days, and have plenty more on the list to go back for. Restaurants are a winning combination of chic and convivial, especially Bombance, which feels like you’ve snuck into a bohemian dinner party: there are wax-coated candlesticks, charcoal-grilled duck breasts with pickled rhubarb, and tiny tasters of Breton liqueurs to go with dessert.

At the food market, we’re rewarded with an overwhelming selection of plump fruit, crunchy veg, fatty meats and stinky cheeses, as well as plenty of take-me-home-for-tea options – I go for a tubful of fragrant chicken tagine.

What is there to do?

Our days are spent buying lime-green berets and linen smocks in the excellent vintage shops, or wandering the cobbled streets with the vague aim of visiting Frac Bretagne (the modern art museum) or admiring the elaborate cathedral, then inevitably ending up in Parc du Thabor again. Its pristine rose gardens, exotic birds and extremely civilised park cafés are hard to resist.

Lasting memory 

Sipping a world-class flat white at Café 1802 while watching an antique wooden carousel playing Breton folk music.

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip 

Plan around the dates of the monthly food market, it’s really special. But don’t bother queueing for the food trucks’ galette-saucisse! This local speciality is just as good from any of the city’s creperies.

When to go 

Rennes is a great choice in spring and autumn, as its highlights don’t rely on perfect weather. Of course, a bit of summer warmth suits a city break, too. But skip the end of August and start of summer, when many locals head out to make the most of their region’s stunning coastal towns and beaches.