It’s perhaps one of France’s less appreciated culinary destinations, but Toulouse is a city where food is woven into the fabric of everyday life. Neil Davey spends some time soaking up its distinct personality 

Where is it? 

France’s fourth-largest city (after Paris, Marseille and Lyon), Toulouse is the capital of the southernmost Occitanie region. It’s well-served by UK airports and France’s ever-impressive railway system. 

Whats the accommodation like? 

There are, as you'd imagine, many options, from the budget to the five star. I stay at the FirstName Toulouse, a good value, modern and comfortable four-star hotel where rooms start at €113 (£98) per night. It’s close to the main station, canal and city centre.

What did you eat and drink? 

There are signature dishes aplenty, not least the garlicky sausage that bears the city’s name. You'll find it in another of the regions great contributions to French food, cassoulet – a stew of white beans, sausages, and other protein such as duck. It’s also home to aligot, a cheese-laden mashed potato variant, and tomme de laguiole, a cheese that melts in a pleasingly creamy, stretchy fashion.

What about the bakeries? 

You can barely walk three doors without passing a bakery, café, restaurant or food shop. Do not, however, order a pain au chocolat – in Toulouse, it’s a chocolatine. You'll find them everywhere, but I can particularly recommend the ones from Maison Beauhaire, inside the Marché Victor Hugo, and Péché Mignon (37 Rue du Languedoc). Also worth the walk is De Sens Pâtisserie (24 Rue Denfert Rochereau), an unassuming-looking place with astonishingly creative, very delicious items.

And the markets?

The justifiably famous one is Marché Victor Hugo, with a dazzling collection of counters selling meat, fish, bread, cakes, cheese, wine and produce. Try Maison Garcia for saucisson, saucisse and rillettes, and Pâtisserie B. Authié for pretty cakes and a signature dessert, the ‘Paris-Toulouse’ – a twist on the Paris-Brest filled with cream flavoured with local violets, a flower for which the region is known.

Say cheese 

It's France. Of course there's cheese. And, in the form of Xavier Fromagerie, just outside the Marché Victor Hugo, one of the best cheese shops I've ever seen. (And I say that as a former Neal's Yard Dairy cheesemonger.) The must-try is the Pavé Toulousain, a brick-shaped pressed cow’s milk cheese thats the shops own creation, but the Comté Selection, another speciality, is a close second.

And to wash it down? 

Again, your'e not short of bars, but do make time for a glass of natural sparkling wine at the charmingly cosy Le Nabuchodonosor (15 Rue du Coq d’Inde), one of the citys oldest wine bars.

What do I need to pack? 

Comfortable shoes and a light jacket. Summers are hot, but in spring, autumn and early winter, temperatures are mostly pleasant.

Lasting memory 

A lazy Sunday morning spent wandering the Marché Producteurs Locaux Saint-Aubin. An accidental discovery near the hotel, it’s a sprawling mix of food, local produce and artisan crafts that made me wish Id brought a bigger suitcase.

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip 

Make a detour to one of the two branches of La Compagnie du Chocolat. Buy two more bars than you think you need, because you will inhale the first.