Spencer Lengsfield visits the new Parisian brasserie from popular French restaurant group La Nouvelle Garde

Where is it?

Brasserie Olivia is in the heart of Chelsea in Sloane Square, just moments from the station.

What’s the place like?

The space is chic and airy – it’s a large space but strikes a balance between intimate and buzzing. There are a few tables outside, the perfect spot to have a drink and a nibble on a warm summer evening.

What did you eat and drink?

We ordered a mix of classic French dishes and seasonal specialities. To start, we tried the leeks vinaigrette, the sea bream crudo with citrus and the escargot with parsley butter – and of course some fresh sourdough bread on the side.

My highlight was the leeks vinaigrette: it came with buttery, crunchy croutons, roasted hazelnuts and a slightly sweet vinaigrette to complement the jammy leeks. The crudo was also heavenly, super fresh and citrussy, and the escargot was excellent. I’ve found that escargot can be hit or miss in the past, but the parsley butter these were swimming in was just perfect with the sourdough.

We then moved on to the steak frites with bavette, crispy fries and bearnaise, and the ‘catch of the day’: cod with lobster bisque and seasonal vegetables. The bavette was very well seasoned, juicy and edge-to-edge pink. It was also very reasonably priced for such a delicious steak. The cod was very well cooked, nice and flaky, with a well-seasoned lobster bisque that really did taste like lobster.

To finish, we had to order the classic Paris-brest: choux pastry filled with a mountain of hazelnut mousseline, praline and roasted hazelnuts. My mum isn’t a huge dessert person but she absolutely loved this one. I would return just for this!

To drink, we both ordered Pouilly-Fumé by the glass. We intended to order a glass of red when the steak arrived, but we just enjoyed our white too much so we ordered more of the same! Although it did complement the cod very well.

The verdict?

Brasserie Olivia is a must-visit. The service was wonderful, the food was excellent and the vibe was immaculate. It’s a versatile spot that feels just as inviting on a balmy July evening as it does on a cosy January night.