Senior food producer Spencer Lengsfield visits this coastal gem with a lot of heart – and a lot of food!

Where is it? 

Fishguard is a coastal town in Pembrokeshire, on the northern coast of the county in south-west Wales. Manor Town House is in the middle of Upper Fishguard, near an abundance of pubs and restaurants and just a short walk away from lower Fishguard.

What’s the accommodation like? 

As we pulled up to Manor Town House, a stylish Georgian B&B, we were greeted by our hosts, Helen and Chris. Having run the house for 18 years, their passion and care is evident in every detail: the wood-burning fire, background jazz and the muddy boot tray outside each room for coastal walkers. We were served tea, fresh scones with clotted cream and jam, and a glass of fizz on arrival – a fitting celebration for their new five-star Visit Wales rating. Our room was blessed with a spectacular sea view and a bed so large the two of us could both starfish comfortably.

What did you eat and drink? 

My personal highlight of Manor Town House was the 4-course breakfast made by Helen each morning. Helen is known as the ‘breakfast genius’, with her rotating menu featuring a selection of fresh fruit, homemade granola with yogurt and a compote (on Saturday it was strawberry and cardamom foam), along with warm pastries and preserves. The savoury courses were just as impressive, with a truffle, mushroom & spinach omelette one morning, followed by smoked salmon and samphire with cheesy scrambled eggs on sourdough from local bakery Nourish the next.

Fuelled by Helen’s breakfast, we set out to discover Fishguard’s foodie gems. Opposite the B&B is Ffwrn, a vibrant local restaurant, bar, and live music venue in a converted church hall centred around their wood-burning oven. We also stopped by Peppers, a local institution since 1987 run by Myles and his family. There, we chatted with Myles and local cheesemakers Alan and Philip of Pencw Cheese. Myles paired their ‘Jemima blue’ with a lemon marmalade and savoury Welsh cakes, a lovely way to round off our meal.

Our favourite meal, however, was at Sailors' Safety, a 10-minute drive away towards Newport. Located mid-way through Dinas Head walk, the perfect place to reward yourself with some local seafood and a pint. We ordered the garlic & chilli prawns and a fishcake with pickled kohlrabi and tartare to start. After polishing those off in record time, we moved onto the bouillabaisse made with mussels, fennel, and the catch of the day (seabass for us), and a butternut squash risotto with crispy kale and pickled radish. Our meal here was truly faultless and the beautiful coastal views made our experience even better.

For a hiker’s packed lunch, Nourish bakery is a must, but get there early. We joined the queue at 9am for a Marmite & cheese twist and a carrot cake cruffin. Owners Charlie and Monika recommended a spot where we could enjoy our pastries in the sun overlooking the coastline. For a slower pace, stop by Jemima’s, a cosy coffee shop with homemade bakes that doubles as a wine bar in the evenings.

What is there to do? 

There are many beautiful coastal walks to keep you occupied, but Fishguard is also an important site in British history: Fishguard was the site of the last invasion of mainland Britain in 1797. The surrender of French forces was aided by the help of local cobbler Jemima Nicholas who, armed with only a pitchfork, famously led a group of women to capture 12 soldiers. Today, she is a local legend. Visit the Fishguard Invasion Centre Trust to learn more about the history via the ‘Last Invasion Tapestry’. This detailed 100ft long embroidered tapestry took around 80 volunteers four years to complete; a testament to the pride the locals hold for their home.

Lasting memory 

Enjoying the beautiful coastal views with a pint after a spectacular meal at Sailor’s Safety – next time, I’ll make sure to fit in a long walk!  

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip 

Be sure to visit The Ship Inn – a hometown favourite pub since 1750, featuring a free vintage jukebox and Dennis, the pub dog.