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Travel

Staycation: Undercastle Cottage, New Forest

by Helena Lang
Staycation: Undercastle Cottage, New Forest
The fairytale property at Undercastle Cottage

The thatched, beautifully appointed Undercastle Cottage – with its riverside setting and languorous quiet – is a sumptuous self-catering treat. Read Helena Lang's review. 

A room with a view at Undercastle Cottage
A room with a view at Undercastle Cottage

When I was a little girl I was a sucker for fairytales, and my favourites usually involved the heroine living in bucolic paradise in a picture-perfect thatched cottage, deep in the woods, surrounded by the sweet sound of birdsong and gentle wildlife. Little did I know that one day I would get to spend the weekend somewhere that ticked every box of my childhood fantasy. Tucked down a long private lane within the New Forest, Undercastle Cottage is so gorgeous it draws gasps from not just me, but also my husband Simon, daughter Jess, her partner Nathan and my parents as we arrive for an early summer long weekend.

From the well-tended garden – full of blooming perennials – and clambering roses around the doorways and windows, to the high-spec furniture, furnishings, fixtures and fittings that brought on nods of approval from the interior-design and DIY experts amongst us, this is selfcatering at the most deluxe level. Owner Shabs Kay clearly has an eye for detail, and the beds – big, deep and super comfy – come from her own store, Victorian Dreams, where she and her team source, restore and sell antique and vintage styles. The icing on the fairytale cake, however, is the setting. Set right back with a lawn that sweeps down to the banks of the River Avon and a view that looks over to grazing cattle in a meadow beyond, this is the place to sip a G&T on the terrace – naturally equipped with high-quality outdoor furniture – light the excellent barbecue and simply relax.

A moreish meal at The Horse and Groom
A moreish meal at The Horse and Groom

We spend evenings watching the swallows and swifts dip and dive over the river, the ducks, swans and geese paddling by and, at dusk, the bats flitting out from the trees. To be honest, it is hard (and unnecessary if you come well-prepared) to leave the property at all. But a short drive or a decent walk does bring you to the village of Woodgreen, where the New Forest ponies and a herd of wild donkeys gather daily to slow down the traffic and provide plenty of Instagram fodder. Here, there is an excellent Community Shop, where a huge range of local produce – from wine to chocolate, meat to fruit and veg – is for sale, as well as daily essentials and – always a winner – plants from local gardeners at irresistible prices. There’s also a decent (and popular) pub, The Horse and Groom, where the South African landlord has some of his country’s classics, such as a beef bobotie, on the menu alongside pub favourites including fish pie and macaroni cheese. The riverbank provides much of our entertainment.

There are private fishing rights from the cottage’s garden and keen anglers might catch a pike, trout, barbel or chub in what some regard as the best coarse and fly fishing water in the country. Beginners like us can get tuition from local angling experts and we all enjoyed casting off competitively, although only Nathan manages to land anything… which he of course puts back in the water. Simon and I are better sailors, taking the cottage’s own little rowing boat out and venturing up river where several riverbank parties cheer us on in our efforts. It’s hot work and before long we’re tempted into the cool, refreshing water for a spot of wild swimming.

All too soon it’s time to gather our belongings, pack up the cars, lock the doors and swing shut the gate before heading home. We’re sad to go, but comforted to know that sometimes, like in the best fairytales, childhood dreams really can come true.

How to book

A four-night break at Undercastle Cottage starts at £1,177 (for four guests in the cottage and two guests in the nearby Fishing Lodge). Includes bikes, kayaks and a welcome hamper. Fly and coarse fishing tutorage and the option of a private chef are by arrangement. Visit undercastlecottage.co.uk.

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