Now owned by entrepreneurs Anthony and Donna Cooper-Barney this large Victorian country house has been transformed into chic, luxury Palé Hall hotel alongside the Bryntirion Inn a few hundred metres away, where proper pub classics and Anthony Cooper-Barney’s treasured car memorabilia are all on show.  

Where is it? 

Attractively positioned in the Dee Valley right at the edge of Snowdonia National Park near the little town of Bala.   

What’s the accommodation like? 

Palé Hall is a grand old-school Victorian country house built for the railway magnate Henry Robertson so he could entertain his friends with traditional country pursuits. The Cooper-Barneys have cleverly maintained the hotel’s grandness – you do feel like you’re somewhere very special, but they have also added some glamour and glitz, especially in the public areas. The Huntsman Bar and Whisky Lounge combines modern brass and deep green velvet furnishings with hunting trophies, and the Henry Robertson restaurant is a cool, calm and collected space in cream and gold with well-spaced tables and glittering chandeliers. Our ground-floor suite was huge, with a large bed, comfortable sitting room and giant walk-in shower and bath. 

At the Bryntirion Inn the rooms are of course more modest, and indeed smaller. Our room in the eaves was fine for us small townies but anyone playing for the Welsh national rugby squad would have found it challenging, so do check which room you’re getting on booking. Downstairs in the bar and restaurant there’s a glut of motoring memorabilia collected by Anthony Cooper-Barney, which brings an unusual feel to this traditional country inn. There’s an open kitchen in the restaurant and a large bar with a traditional fireplace and plenty of seating options. 

What did you eat and drink? 

Michelin-starred chef Luke Selby has been hired by Palé Hall to revitalise the menu in the Henry Robertson restaurant and bring a genuinely foodie element to the dining options. Our meal highlights were the Orkney scallop with Thai green curry and pak choi and some excellent wagyu beef with kohlrabi and hoisin. In the Huntsman Bar the cocktails are the stuff of magic and fantasy; a 'Bloody Delicious' features black garlic vodka, tomato, carrot and the traditional seasonings whilst a 'King Kong' uses a rum based on discarded banana peel, cinnamon, apricot and lime. 

At the Bryntirion Inn chef Ethan Clearly is delivering exceptional and elevated pub food. If you go do order one of the pies, you will not be disappointed. 

What is there to do? 

Get outside and potter about the sculpture trail in the magnificent gardens or book a creative pottery workshop to discover your inner artist. There are also some spectacular hiking trails nearby and a well-equipped wellness centre (that’s a gym and sauna to you and me) for burning the calories on a rainy day. 

What do I need to pack?  

Walking shoes and a rainproof – this is Wales after all. 

Lasting memory 

Having a hilarious afternoon on a pottery workshop with local ceramist Jo-anna Duncalf in the fully equipped studio. Oh, and that pie! 

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip 

If you’re coming from London, let the train take the strain. The hotel can organise transfers (for a fee) from Wrexham General or Chester stations.