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Travel

Staycation: The Cookie Jar, Alnwick

by Fiona Gibson
Staycation: The Cookie Jar, Alnwick
Image: The Cookie Jar

Fiona Gibson and her husband Jimmy fell in love with charms of the Medieval town of Alnwick – a jewel in Northumberland’s crown  

Where is it? 

In the north-east of England, just five miles from the Northumberland coast, Alnwick is a beautifully preserved market town.  

What’s the accommodation like? 

My husband Jimmy and I are staying at The Cookie Jar, a chic boutique hotel created from what was once a convent. Where nuns once lived in rather austere conditions, now the vibe is cosy luxe: all deep, soothing blues, inviting nooks and shelves of leather-bound books. In our spacious, light filled room we are delighted to discover a Kilner jar of home-made cookies (thoughtfully, this is refilled every day).  

Scallops on butternut purée
Scallops on butternut purée

What did you eat and drink? 

As we settle into the inviting lounge, I opt for Sister Catherine’s Cosmopolitan as a pre-dinner cocktail. A pretty pale pink, the alluring combination of vodka, Cointreau, lime and cranberry would make a nun blush. Dinner is served in relaxed surroundings overlooking the hotel’s cottagey garden. Plump, sweet scallops on a velvety butternut puree, and juicy king prawns with chorizo start things off deliciously.  

Next come crispy pork schnitzel and perfectly pan-seared seabream with roasted cucumber and a cheeky side of parmesan fries. Jimmy is lured by the most comforting of puds – caramelised apple, apricot and honey crumble – while I tuck into fine British cheeses, thoughtfully paired with a tiny bowl of Northumbrian honey.  

We also enjoy an incredible 14-course tasting menu at Sonnet, a new Alnwick restaurant where the focus is on simplicity. There’s a creamy pea and smoked eel pannacotta, a freshly-baked croissant filled with tender lamb and a deeply cheesy potato riso (part soup, part risotto) that has us swooning. Chocolate and olive oil come with a tab of caviar, and a tiny rhubarb mousse is swirled with cream and speckled with fresh flowers. Dinner – served Tuesday to Saturday – is £97 per person for 14 courses (drinks pairing  £62 per person). Visit sonnet.restaurant or call 01665 517628.   

What is there to do? 

We love exploring The Alnwick Garden (alnwickgarden.com) and are lucky to see the orchard of over 300 cherry blossom trees in bloom (catch the stunning display between late April and early May). Barter Books, a vast second-hand bookstore housed in a former railway station, makes for delightful browsing. At the spectacular Alnwick Castle, location for two Harry Potter films, there are tours, talks and broomstick training sessions (alnwickcastle.com).  

Alnwick Garden's poison garden
Alnwick Garden's poison garden

What do I need to pack?  

The weather can be blustery so pack warm layers, especially if you head to the coast for a puffin cruise.  

Lasting memory 

From the nearby coastal village of Amble we take a ‘puffin cruise’ around Coquet Island, home to 40,000 nesting birds (puffincruises.co.uk). It’s a thrill to see hundreds of young birds bobbling together on the sea’s surface – known as a ‘raft of puffins’ – plus grey seals lazing on the island’s shore. Between May and early August is the best time to see puffins before they take off for the Atlantic. Trips (approx one hour) cost £20 pp. 

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip 

For world-famous kippers head for the fishing village of Craster where one family have been smoking herring for four generations. You can also order online: kipper.co.uk  

How to book

Starting price for a cosy double at The Cookie Jar is £235.00 including breakfast. To book visit cookiejaralnwick.com 

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