Travel
Staycation: The Ship at Dunwich, Suffolk
by Samantha Jones
Following the emergence of such terms, I have found myself firmly labelled as a ‘millennial dog mum’ – and as a single parent to a playful, mildly dictator-like miniature dachshund, I am always keen to find new adventures for us both. Many places call themselves ‘dog friendly’, but what you often find is tolerance, rather than a truly welcoming stay for your four-legged friend.
The Ship at Dunwich, however, has pooches front of mind – from the buzzy pub to the rooms. When aforementioned mini-dictator Alfie drags me directly into the pub (not sure where he learned that), it’s immediately clear this is a place where hospitality is for hounds as well as humans: every table boasts at least one dog, comfortably lolling next to their water bowl from the bar.
Where is it?
A stone’s throw from Dunwich Beach in the small picturesque village of Dunwich on the Suffolk coast.
What’s the accommodation like?
Alfie soon tows me up the stairs to our room for the night, and his warm welcome is sealed with a comfy dog bed, bowls and treats – which, of course, he finds before I do, and our first negotiation of the day takes place (one treat now, more later).
The Ship’s building is full of coastal character, and our room is tucked away in the corner of the first floor with views over marshes towards the beach. The large, iron-framed bed is comfortably clad with pillows, and fortunately too high for small sausage dogs to jump on – though he tries anyway. A narrow staircase leads to an additional attic-style bedroom with two single beds – perfect for a family stay and where I plan to put my youngest sister, Milly, who arrives later. First born, best bed, after all.
What did you eat and drink?
A fire is blazing in the bar at dinner and I kick off with a refreshingly bitter alcohol-free energiser spritz. My starter from the specials board is a generous serve of lemon-laced mackerel pâté with sourdough that I follow up with a steak and ale pie, which arrives on a bed of mash glistening with gravy.
Milly is vegan, and her roast cauliflower with dates and tahini gets the nod of approval, while a butternut squash and lentil pithivier, also with mash and gravy, is an inventive and delicious plant-based option compared with many pub menus.
Greed means we can’t refuse dessert, and a sticky toffee pudding with ice cream and vegan apple, pear and blackberry crumble are rich with comfort. Even better? Alfie (mostly) behaves himself under the table with a steady supply of treats and pats from the lovely staff.
The ‘full Anglian’ breakfast the following morning is hearty and fulfilling alongside a fresh pot of coffee.
We also enjoy lunch at The Ship’s sister pub, The Westleton Crown. I manage to devour a Sunday roast in the name of the job: my Hereford beef is pink in the middle, with crunchy roast potatoes and an enormous Yorkshire pud. Alfie is spoilt with a sausage from the dog menu.
What is there to do?
We were blessed with a blue-sky day on arrival, so Alfie and I headed out to Dunwich Beach, less than five minutes’ walk away, and enjoyed a beautiful stroll along the pebbles, then back along the marshland adjacent to the beach.
The following day, we drove a few minutes up the road to amble the Westleton Heath circular walk; there are plenty of walks to enjoy in the area.
What do I need to pack?
Sturdy shoes for the pebbly beach and, while the Westleton Heath circular walk has clear paths, I’d imagine walking boots would be a good idea for damper weather.
Lasting memory?
The absolute pleasure of being able to take Alfie along and not worry he was a nuisance for other guests or staff – The Ship at Dunwich is a top-notch dog-friendly stay.
Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip
In winter months, ask to reserve a table next to the blazing fire – it’s a cosy way to enjoy dinner after a bracing walk on the beach.
How to book
A one-night ‘Sandy Paws Stay’ at The Ship at Dunwich starts from £197, including dinner for two (£60 allocation) and breakfast, plus treats for your dog. Visit shipatdunwich.co.uk.