Margaret Hussey checks into this five-star hotel that comes with the luxury of a Michelin star for food and two Michelin Keys. Plus all the warmth of a home-from-home experience. 

Where is it? 

Near Chagford, in Dartmoor National Park, Devon. The River Teign flows through the property’s grounds.  

What’s the accommodation like? 

With 24 rooms all individually designed, the accent is on quality and comfort. There is crisp white bed linen, a huge shower and roll top bath plus plentiful L’Occitane Verveine products in the bathroom. The artwork and antiques are in keeping with the building’s aesthetic of traditional yet cosy.

What did you eat and drink? 

The three course à la carte menu is a masterpiece of flavours and presentation. We had salt baked celeriac and lobster for starters with John Dory and earthy Chicken of the Woods Mushroom for mains. The white chocolate pudding is deliciously sweet, crunchy and moreish - and one to have to yourself. Definitely not a two-spoon dessert.  

Afternoon tea can be taken either in the hotel or from a hamper in the grounds. You get a flask of tea or coffee, chicken and salmon sandwiches or cheese and hummus for vegetarians, plus scones, macarons and cakes. Portions are huge and you will probably end up taking some home, as we did.  

Breakfast includes a continental choice and a cooked option. The Bircher muesli ticked both the healthy box as well as tasting incredible. While my avocado with eggs, halloumi, honey and harissa was a real talking point. A full English option - both veggie and for meat-eaters - is huge and will certainly set you up for the day.  

What is there to do? 

There are many walks from the hotel to nearby Gidleigh Castle or Kestor and Scorhill. Or just stroll around the 107 acres of woodland in the grounds. Pop into the quintessentially English village of Chagford, where you will find independent stores selling local honey, ceramics and art. Or take a spin to Dartmoor National Park itself to see the cattle, sheep and ponies roaming the heather and gorse.  

What do I need to pack? 

Even though this is fine dining, smart casual dress is perfectly acceptable at dinner. Plus good walking shoes if you are planning on hiking.  

Lasting memory 

The warmth and friendliness of the staff both to us and my friend Lisa’s dog Alfie. It’s the sort of place where you can kick off your shoes, curl up with a book and would be a perfect retreat even as a solo visitor.  

There are two rooms set aside for dogs in the hotel and our four-legged friend was given a five-star welcome with a biscuit, ball and feeding bowls in our room. Heated kennels for working dogs are also on site.  

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip 

Make sure you book between Tuesday to Saturday for the à la carte menu. It is not served on Sunday and Monday, where simpler fare is available.