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Food

Taking Orders: Motorino, West End

by Helena Lang
Taking Orders: Motorino, West End
Image: Mark Scott

Chef Stevie Parle has joined forces with chef Luke Ahearne to open Motorino, a beautiful dining space in London's West End with a very modern Italian menu.

Where is it?
Near Goodge Street in a new development and a five-minute walk from Tottenham Court Road or Oxford Street.

What’s all the fuss about?
Stevie Parle is on fire. After the launch of Town he has kept his foot firmly on the accelerator and has now opened Motorino – with its interiors inspired by the car showrooms of the 1960s. Working closely with young (former Michelin-starred) chef Luke Ahearne, they have developed a pleasing, tempting menu full of modern Italian-style classics.

Classy, intimate interiors
Classy, intimate interiors

What’s the place like?
Classy. Low lighting creates an intimacy in the large space, which is cleverly designed with a cocktail bar at the short end of the L-shaped room and the large restaurant featuring smart banquettes and booths as well as well-spaced tables. It’s all very Mad Men and will suit the local clientele of ad agency types very well.

Bluefin tuna carpaccio – slivers of the freshest fish
Bluefin tuna carpaccio – slivers of the freshest fish

What did you eat and drink?
A glass of prosecco while we perused the menu was the perfect post-work pick-me-up, and there’s a great selection of wine available by the carafe – we chose the 'Second Cheapest White' (their words not mine!), a Quinta da Pedra Alta from Douro in Portugal.

It being a Monday evening – and post a weekend of feasting – we went lighter on the food ordering. I’d been urged to try the bluefin tuna carpaccio, and it was a beautiful plate of slivers of the freshest fish covered in corno peppers, coriander and sudachi – a Japanese citrus fruit. My chum’s Delica pumpkin was sticky roasted wedges, served with stracciatella – a creamy Italian cheese – candied hazelnuts and radicchio.

I was also persuaded by those in the know to order the Old Spot chop – and what a triumph of meaty loveliness it is. A huge well-browned cut, sliced for ease and served with mustard fruits and Braeburn apple. The day boat Cornish monkfish came with salsify, trompettes and a glossy golden roasted chicken butter sauce. The perfect pool for the Pink Fir potatoes in a herb butter and the Brussels sprouts with chestnuts and clementine.

My dining companion couldn’t manage dessert, but in the aid of research I did order a rich and sticky chocolate mousse that came dolloped with caramel and vanilla ice cream. I tried to leave half… but failed.

The Old Spot pork chop – a triumph of meaty loveliness
The Old Spot pork chop – a triumph of meaty loveliness

The verdict?
This is a place where deals are done and dates are successful. It made me want to slip on my highest heels and sashay across the room, although plenty of other diners had (like me) turned up in their trainers. I loved it.

Lasting memory
That Old Spot chop. The nicest piece of pork I have eaten in ages.

How to book

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