Spencer Lengsfield visits the relaunch of this century-old French restaurant.

Where is it?
Located in Langham Place, just off Piccadilly Circus on London’s iconic Regent Street.

What’s the place like?
The interior of Richoux is grand, reminiscent of old-school French dining but with modern flair. With marble tabletops, navy accents and abstract art adorning the walls, it feels both comfortable and slightly lavish.

What did you eat and drink?
It feels necessary to preface this review by saying that we absolutely went overboard and ended up with a very rich meal. I have no regrets, but maybe don’t do as I did – take multiple trips and spread the load!

We started with the gruyère-filled gougères, beef tartare with pommes paille (shoestring fries), and the truffle croque monsieur. The croque monsieur was a surprise favourite: perfectly toasted bread, gooey melted cheese, a black truffle bechamel and a grating of fresh truffle to finish. They managed to balance the truffle flavour nicely and I would go back just for this! The tartare was also delicious, with subtle hints of horseradish.

Next, we tried the boeuf bourguignon, ribeye frites with bearnaise and garlic butter, and mixed salad leaves on the side. The bourguignon came with pomme purée (the most luxurious mashed potatoes you’ll ever try), which was the perfect accompaniment. The ribeye frites was also excellent. I often find that steak in restaurants can feel like a waste, but this was edge-to-edge pink with a lovely deep-brown crust, and the fries were well seasoned with the right amount of crisp. Upon reflection, I don’t know why we ordered so much beef – next time, I’d try the baby chicken or the duck à l'orange.

We finished with the server-recommended profiteroles and Richoux’s signature 1909 chocolate chaud with Chantilly cream. I will be eternally grateful to the server for strongly recommending the profiteroles, as they were laughably delicious. The choux pastry and tonka bean Chantilly cream paired with the dark chocolate and coffee sauce was one of the most glorious things I’ve ever eaten. The hot chocolate was also fantastic, but it’s hard to go wrong with a French-style hot chocolate.

To make this dinner even more decadent, we had a glass of server-guided red wine to pair with our mains, and a cocktail each. I chose the Boulevadier, which is essentially a negroni but with bourbon instead of gin. As both a big negroni and bourbon fan myself, this may have become my new favourite cocktail. The embossed ice cube was also a lovely touch.

The verdict?
I previously felt somewhat indifferent about French food, but Richoux has really sold it to me. Order the classics – and don’t skip dessert!