Abigail Spooner uncovers the low-key charm of Comporta, Portugal’s coastal haven that offers far more to explore than meets the eye.

Where is it?

We're staying at AlmaLusa, a hotel nestled in the heart of Comporta village and just over an hour’s drive south of Lisbon. The landscape here is rice paddies and white sand dunes – a rare pocket of untouched natural beauty. Its serenity owes much to the area’s protected nature reserve status, and to its previous ownership by the Espírito Santo banking family, who strictly controlled development. In contrast to the lively, somewhat overdeveloped Algarve, Comporta is all about more laid-back living.

What’s the accommodation like? 

The hotel feels like a sanctuary the moment you step through its doors… large leafy plants, neutral tones, a cucumber-water dispenser, jute rugs and a ceiling adorned with colourful woven baskets. Boardwalk-style walkways reflect its coastal position. There are several rooms to choose from and ours is an airy open-plan pool suite. It continues the same natural, artisan style of décor, complete with wicker lamps, rattan furnishings, crisp cotton sheets and a powerful rainfall shower. The bonus? It’s just three steps away from the shimmering turquoise waters of the communal swimming pool.

What did you eat and drink? 

On our first evening, we head up to AlmaLusa's rooftop bar in time for sunset. As we sip on cocktails (mine a deliciously tropical concoction of tequila, pineapple and lime), we are struck by dozens of white storks flying gracefully over the rice paddies. It turns out they are an iconic part of the Alentejo region, which has one of the highest concentrations of white storks in Europe, and their large, entangled nests can be found perched on everything from church bell-towers to electricity pylons.

Dinner at the adjacent open-air restaurant is just as memorable. We start with oxtail croquettes topped with dainty dots of mustard and slivers of pink pickled onion – crisp golden breadcrumbs giving way to meltingly tender slow-cooked beef. Our sharing main is arroz de carabineiros, served straight from its cast-iron pan. It’s a regional favourite made with locally grown carolino rice, cooked to a creamy, al dente texture and crowned with plump, scarlet-red carabineiro prawns.

The following evening, we head to local Cavalariça restaurant. Set in a beautifully restored stable, old horse boxes have been transformed into intimate dining nooks. We feast on a series of sharing dishes, including the lightest kale and onion tempura drizzled with a red pepper sauce, and tender Iberico pork presa with grilled lettuce, a sharp orange salad and a rich black pepper jus.

Dessert steals the show: a frozen vanilla and olive oil parfait on a black sesame cake, layered with tart lemon curd, salted sesame crunch and a cloud of torched Italian meringue. It ticks every sweet, salty and sour box.

What is there to do? 

Despite Comporta's quiet charm and understated approach to tourism, there is no shortage of ways to fill your time. From the hotel, it's a 20-minute stroll through towering forests of cork oak to the beach. It’s a seemingly never-ending stretch of golden sand where the Atlantic’s waves roll and crash out to the horizon.

AlmaLusa describe their concierge team as the ultimate insider. From horse riding along the beach and birdwatching tours, to golf, boat trips and restaurant recommendations, guests are truly spoilt for choice here.

A surfing lesson at nearby Carvalhal beach is the most invigorating start to our mornings. We are joined by only one person (shoulder season perks!) and instructor Tomás, who has infinite patience for my infinite attempts to stand up on the board.

Later, we enjoy a behind-the-scenes tour of the wine cellar at Herdade Da Comporta, one of Portugal’s largest agricultural estates and conveniently just across the road from the hotel. Our guide, Vera, greets us with a warm smile and a wealth of knowledge. As we wander through the cool, dimly lit cellars, she explains how the sandy soil, gentle climate and salty Atlantic breeze give the wines their distinct minerality. The tour ends with a tasting of three reds and three whites, each with its own story and character.

Lasting memory

For our final day, we opt for something a little slower and hire bikes from the hotel. We pedal to the cais palafítico, a well-known ramshackle wooden pier on stilts. The bobbing fishing boats make for another picturesque sunset setting as I take one last deep breath of holiday bliss.

Sainsbury’s Magazine Insider Tip

We visited Comporta in October, or shoulder season, and the cloudless azure-blue skies and high-20s warmth are the perfect antidote to the falling autumn temperatures back home. Plus, you'll avoid the high summer crowds.