Rebecca Pitcairn discovers a vibrant food scene with hectares of vineyards within easy reach on the Med’s largest island

Where is it?

I stay at the Palazzo Liberty Unique Hotel by Geocharme, a stylish building on Via Roma, one of the thoroughfares of Palermo’s historic centre. It’s within walking distance of the Teatro Massimo opera house, Quattro Canti, and the city’s famous street markets.

What’s the accommodation like?

Built in the early 20th century as a private residence, Palazzo Liberty has been sensitively and creatively restored to reflect its Art Nouveau surroundings.

Contemporary art and sculpture create a striking lobby that leads to a mixture of rooms – some light-filled, with iron balconies overlooking the street below, others quieter and moodier. The buffet breakfast features ingredients from the hotel’s organic farm near Castelvetrano.

What did you eat and drink?

Palermo is one of Italy’s most diverse cities when it comes to local specialities, and the best place to try them is at the bustling street markets of Ballarò, Capo and Vucciria.

Panelle (chickpea fritters) and arancini are great grab-and-go snacks to enjoy as you explore the city’s historic quarter on foot. Or for a sit-down meal, caponata (Sicily’s answer to ratatouille) and sarde e beccafico (sardines stuffed with a mixture of breadcrumbs, pine nuts and raisins) are staples in most restaurants.

You can’t leave the city without trying a Sicilian pizza. You can get the island’s classic style, sfincione – a sponge-like focaccia topped with tomato sauce – from market stalls. But for a more familiar-looking version, head to Mastunicola pizzeria, with the fluffiest dough around. Pair your pizza with a glass of one of Sicily’s indigenous wine varieties – grillo (white) or nero d’avola (red or rosé).

What is there to do?

Palermo offers a little bit of everything. And while I’d describe its foodie quarters as a bit bonkers, the city also has a calmer side. In the area surrounding Palazzo Butera – a beautifully curated gallery and museum overlooking the harbour that’s a must-visit – there are independent art studios run by friendly artists eager to show their wares.

The city is like an art gallery in itself – larger-than-life street murals and graffiti sit side by side, and the architecture is an eclectic fusion of styles. Try not to get run over as you marvel at the impressive Quattro Canti – the central crossroads where Palermo’s four neighbourhoods meet.

What do I need to pack?

Comfortable shoes – the best way to consume this city is on foot.

Lasting memory

Taking a trip out of the city to discover the diversity of the region’s winemaking. At Feudo Disisa winery – a 400-hectare estate about an hour inland, run by the fifth-generation Di Lorenzo family – I sample everything from traditional-method sparkling wine to a sweet wine made from grillo.

And at Tonnino winery near Alcamo, I discover how well Sicily’s terroir is also suited to international grape varieties, enjoying a glass of the island’s only chenin blanc.

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip

Inside the convent of Santa Caterina, a church and monastery that’s now a museum, you’ll find a small bakery called The Secrets of the Cloister. For over 700 years, nuns baked pastries here – including cannoli and minne della Vergine (ricotta-filled marzipan domes) – until the last cloistered nuns left the city just over a decade ago.

Now, however, a group of local entrepreneurs have revived the tradition, using the nun’s exact recipes. Open daily, its proceeds help with restoration costs and provide opportunities for young people in the city.