Forget Dracula. From charming medieval villages to moreish traditional cuisine, Helen Renshaw discovers that there’s much more to Transylvania than vampires

Where is it?

Ringed by the foggily romantic Carpathian Mountains, Transylvania is in central Romania. The region has a history rich in Gothic, Hungarian, Saxon and Ottoman influences, with a dollop of Vlad the Impaler (aka Son of Dracul) thrown in.

Think perfectly preserved medieval towns, charming Saxon villages and bucolic farmland supporting a traditional rustic lifestyle.

What’s the accommodation like?

Not spooky in the least. We stay in three hotels, each characterful, comfy and perfectly positioned to explore.

First stop is the Hotel Atria in Brasov, all clean, modern comfort with a lively cobbled street of enticing restaurants just around the corner. Next is the boutique Art Hotel in Sibiu, where the beds are huge and the vibes bohemian, with local artworks on the walls.

And in delightful Sighişoara – which is pretty much the same as it was 600 years ago – our room at The Mercure Sighişoara Binderbubi is palatial (two loos, no less!). We rattle around in splendour, before heading out to soak up the medieval vibes.

What did you eat?

Transylvanian cuisine may not be the most Insta-friendly, but it packs a serious punch when it comes to flavour.

The traditional dishes are a hearty, moreish blend of flavours based on fresh, local ingredients. Our favourites are sarmale – pickle-sour cabbage rolls stuffed with mincemeat that bursts with sweetness, herbs and warming paprika, served alongside polenta enriched with local cheeses – and papanași, hot fried sugar-dusted doughnuts, made from curd cheese dough and served with dollops of sour cream and wild blueberry jam. Bliss.

Lighter, modern takes on local dishes – like crispy, locally sourced trout with creamy cauliflower puree and tangy pickled cherry tomatoes – are also delicious.

And there’s a great street food scene featuring roasted sweetcorn, filo stuffed with salty cheese and heavily seasoned grilled meat rolls slathered in mustard, plus locally brewed dark ales based on ancient recipes and excellent wines from the south-east of the country.

What is there to do?

Loads. We’re wonderfully looked after by our excellent guide and driver, Radu, who takes us to meet rescue brown bears at the Libearty Bear Sanctuary, ancient castles, fortified churches, and a family-run distillery making the local tipple, palinka.

For us, the best stops are when we meet local artisans and producers – like coppersmith Viktor and farmer George, who treats us to a Transylvanian cheese tasting – our favourite comes stuffed in pine bark.

What do I need to pack?

The weather veers from downpours to warm sunshine. Pack a rain jacket and comfortable shoes that can cope with the cobbles. Don’t go overboard on glad rags – even the swankiest restaurants are informal – and leave your high heels at home.

Lasting memory

Lunch in the gorgeous garden of traditional smallholding Bio Mosna (@biomosna), home of Lavinia and her son Joel. Enjoying their fresh home-grown produce at a table dressed in sunflowers and gourds while ducks flock around our feet and calves nuzzle fragrant hay nearby is like stepping back into an altogether better past.

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip

Head for farmer George’s favourite Brasov restaurant Bistro de l’Arte and order a bottle of Caii de la Letea, a fresh, green appley wine made from the aligoté grape in the southeast of Romania. Who knew Romania produces some fantastic wines? There’s so much more to Transylvania than vampires.