Nadine Brown visits new South London hot spot, 2210 by Natty Can Cook. 

Where is it?
In leafy, ‘posh’ London suburb Herne Hill. After feasting, you can head over the road and walk it off in huge Brockwell Park.  

What’s the place like?
Sleek and modern, sculptural mirrors, blue banquette seating and an art deco bar with warm lighting invite you to come and try one of their many cocktails. 

What did you eat and drink?
We kicked off with a rum and sorrel sour and 2210 rum punch (start as we mean to go on and all that). Both were good but the rum punch edged it – these can often be overly sweet but the addition of three rums, one being Wray & Nephew, gave it an undeniable kick.

The menu itself is an elevated take on Caribbean food. In truth, I hate using the word elevated as, having grown up in a Jamaican/Bajan home, I know the effort and time that goes into creating deeply flavoured dishes from smoky jerk chicken to ackee and saltfish. That being said, this isn’t what my nanna used to make. Portions are smaller but beautifully presented on chic tableware, tricks and ideas no doubt picked up from Natty aka Nathanial Mortley’s time working at Oblix at The Shard.

We dived into the confit pork belly starter, which was quite honestly a triumph. So much flavour was packed into this tender slice of pork served with a Scotch bonnet mayo that, despite my aversion to heat, I could have eaten by the spoonful. We also enjoyed a portion of the mac and cheese balls. Crispy golden morsels of cheesy pasta? It’s hard to go wrong.

We were curious at the addition of rice and peas or jollof rice to each main dish, bar the 'lobster rasta pasta'. Both are beloved sides, but would they work alongside a starchy dish like the salt-baked celeriac? We had to try and though we weren’t entirely convinced – the vegetable main not having quite enough sauce to make up for the additional starch – the dish itself was divine in flavour. Tempura okra was a fun crispy addition with pickled red onion adding some bite alongside the velvety celeriac sauce. The jerk chicken supreme was also a winner, the mango and pineapple salsa adding sweetness to combat the warm, heady spice.

The verdict?
This was a welcome twist on a cuisine I typically associate with comfort and family gatherings. In this style it can still be enjoyed with the parents for an upscale roast (they do an excellent Caribbean-inspired Sunday lunch), celebrating with a group of long-missed friends or a chilled date. You will leave feeling full, inspired and assured that Natty Can Cook.