Discover a foodie Shangri-La at the Welbeck estate, situated on the edge of the legendary Sherwood Forest.

The drizzle-defying queue outside gives the game away. Many excellent reasons to visit emerge during our two days at the Welbeck estate in Nottinghamshire, but The Harley Café turns out to be worth the trip all on its own. Word has clearly spread that something special is going on at this outwardly modest café, where flavour-packed dishes that would give the most fashionable of metropolitan establishments a run for their money are served at a fraction of the price. No wonder there are so many regulars in the happy huddle waiting for tables. Pride radiates from exec chef Ricky Stephenson as he discusses his dishes – plate after plate of crowdpleasers appear, each showcasing local ingredients of spectacular quality, many sourced from the estate itself. ‘Food miles?’ he grins, describing one meltingly tender lamb dish. ‘Oh, about 200 yards.’

We love the crispy, light-as-a-feather parsnip bhajis and melt-in-the-mouth venison cobbler, made with game from the estate and served with roast root veggies in a rich roasting gravy sauce, topped with homemade horseradish and parmesan scones. Is there room for pudding? Not really, but we manage it anyway, scoffing chewily caramelised Eccles cakes with Stichelton cheese from the Welbeck Dairy and a silky egg custard tart.

A GREAT ESTATE

Nestled on the edge of Sherwood Forest, the 15,000-acre Welbeck estate was first mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 and has been the country pile of many generations of Dukes of Portland. We stay in a quiet corner of the estate at Holbeck Farm Barns, a sympathetically converted collection of 300-year-old farm buildings a mile up the road from the hub of Welbeck action.

Our home-from-home is the spacious, dog-friendly Mowerina, named after one of the sixth Duke’s favourite racehorses. The comfy three-bed barn conversion is surrounded by glorious countryside to explore, boasts uninterrupted rural views and even has its own hot tub. Sadly, we didn’t bring our bathers. The kitchen, meanwhile, is superbly equipped to whip up something tempting from the award-winning Welbeck Farm Shop.

Today, Welbeck is owned by the only grandchild of the seventh Duke and his wife, who have transformed the estate into a thriving community of artisan producers including Welbeck Dairy, home of the famous Stichelton blue cheese; Welbeck Abbey Brewery (try the bittersweet Red Feather) and the award-winning Welbeck Bakehouse.

Another jewel in Welbeck’s crown is The School of Artisan Food – a school dedicated to the teaching of traditional artisan food skills – where you’ll find state-of-the-art facilities, world-class tutors and loads of courses to try. From bread to charcuterie, cheesemaking to patisserie, barbecue, foraging and fermenting, there’s something to tickle every foodie fancy.

On a super-enjoyable half-day course with the lovely Kevan Roberts – whose 30-year love affair with bread includes everything from setting up the renowned Chestnut Bakery to acting as a technical advisor on The Apprentice – I feel a burst of pride as my half-decent focaccia emerges from the oven. I might just have found myself a new favourite hobby.

For us, food is the focus at Welbeck, but we squeeze in a worthwhile visit to the award-winning Harley Gallery and the historic Portland collection where works by Michelangelo, Stubbs and Van Dyck are exhibited. There’s even a pearl earring worn by Charles I at his execution on display. And if like us, you’ve worked up a hearty appetite after packing it all in, don’t worry – a table at The Harley Café awaits.

THREE MEMORABLE MOMENTS

STOCKING UP AT WELBECK FARM SHOP

One of the UK’s top farm shops, it’s the perfect place to stock up for your stay. After a happy day enjoying Welbeck’s charms, we rustle up a cassoulet flavoured with fantastic bacon from the award-winning butchery counter, locally grown veggies and wild garlic picked on our morning walk to nearby Creswell Crags. Delicious, if we say so ourselves.

DISCOVERING DROPWORKS RUM DISTILLERY

Ever tried modern British rum? We did (lots) on a fun tour of DropWorks, one of several cutting-edge foodie businesses that have made Welbeck their home. Distiller Shaun Smith (aka the Beast of Yeast) imparted the tricks of his trade, while we downed the delicious result. Try the Clear Drop Rum topped with cloudy apple juice and a splash of elderflower. Yum.

TUCKING INTO WELBECK RAREBIT

The menu changes regularly at The Harley Café but some dishes are too good to change – meet Welbeck rarebit, rich with Montgomery’s Cheddar and Welbeck Abbey Brewery Red Feather ale piled on a slice of Bakehouse bread, with tangy home-pickled shallots and a dash of Henderson’s Relish.