Travel
Copenhagen: a solo adventure
by Rebecca Denne
In the heart of the Danish capital, in the buzzing Vesterbro area, Coco Hotel makes the perfect base for Rebecca Denne while exploring the city’s communal dining experiences.
Where is it?
A two-hour flight from London Gatwick, Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark in Northern Europe. Most of the city – which is home to about 670,000 people – is on the island of Zealand, with the rest on the island of Amager.
What is Coco Hotel like?
A quick metro ride and walk from the airport, Coco Hotel is a beautiful spot in Vesterbro, with a welcoming facade of blue-and-white-striped awnings. By day, people pop into the ground-floor café for a quick coffee and a pastry, with locals using it as a spot to catch up on emails. Come evening, glasses of wine are poured and there’s an elegant liveliness to proceedings.
With just 89 rooms, Coco is effortlessly chic. Cream-coloured walls come to life with splashes of red, white and blue in the corridors, and pops of artwork in every room. While I opt for the stairs most days, I can’t help but treat myself to the old-fashioned elevator on occasion.
Despite being in the heart of the city, my room is quiet and cosy, and the baby-pink bathroom makes it feel like it has been decorated with me in mind.
What to eat and drink in Copenhagen?
I’m here to explore Copenhagen’s burgeoning communal dining scene, where food is made with love and stars simple-yet-standout ingredients.
At Folkehuset Absalon, we tuck into homemade bread; roast potatoes with parmigiana and burst cherry tomatoes; a crispy salad with toasted pine nuts; and a wild garlic and pesto dip. At Nordhus, I and a gang of strangers dunk hunks of bread in a creamy red curry with blue mussels and noodles while we chat and laugh.
You’ll not go far in Copenhagen without being tempted by a baked good or two. At Aamanns Genbo, famous for its traditional smørrebrød (open sandwiches), I enjoy the most beautiful warm chicken salad smørrebrød, shortly followed by one with beef tartare. Both are made with precision – comfort food with balance and elegance at its heart.
At Reffen I’m spoiled for choice, with 30-plus food trucks offering tempting plates from around the world. I opt for pork and veal meatballs from Hygge – hand-rolled and served with malty rye bread, sharp-as-you-like pickles and a homemade remoulade that I could eat every day for the rest of my life.
If you’re after something sweet, Coco Hotel’s cardamom buns are sticky and satisfying. You know something’s good when it’s the last thing you think of as your head hits the pillow.
What to do in Copenhagen?
Get moving in a group activity such as a dance class at Folkehuset Absalon – this converted church hosts 100 events a week, from yoga to ceramics. See the sights of the city from the water with a canal trip with GoBoat. Or if you’re feeling brave, head to Plugin Heat Club to join a ‘Deep Session’ and sweat it out in a barrel sauna with a dozen other folk – a ritual that locals, tourists and even groups of colleagues partake in.
Beer-lovers will be astounded by the Home of Carlsberg – be sure to allow ample time for the 3,000-square-metre exhibition and interactive elements. Book a tour of the secret cellar, where you’ll be able to sip Copenhagen’s finest.
What do I need to pack?
Trainers. You’ll want to make like a local and hop on a bike, or potter around on foot – either way, comfy footwear is key.
Lasting memory
Dinner at Karin and Bo’s apartment as part of Silvers – an initiative that aims to foster connection through older members of the community hosting dinners. With four other guests, we explore identity, behaviour and how they impact us. Our hosts explain that they love conversing with open minds and open hearts – and I absolutely agree. As we feast on homemade pea fritters, nutty salad and butter-slathered fresh bread, we have conversations I’ve never had with close friends or family. I leave feeling full of warmth, and with a genuine appreciation for meeting new people.
Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip
Many hotels, including Coco, will rent you a bike for your stay. The roads are designed very much with cyclists in mind – just remember to pedal on the other side of the road to in the UK!
How to book
B&B at Coco Hotel starts at £163 – to book, visit coco-hotel.com. Rebecca Denne travelled as a guest of VisitDenmark and Wonderful Copenhagen.