There’s much more to Finland than reindeer and Santa, as Mitzie Wilson discovers during a visit to the country’s central Jyväskylä region in early December, just after the first snow.

Where is it? 

From Helsinki Airport it’s an easy and very scenic three-hour train ride to Jyväskylä, in the heart of Finnish Lakeland. The region is home to four gorgeous national parks and two UNESCO World Heritage sites, and proudly calls itself the sauna capital of the world.  

You’ll find saunas everywhere, many on the lakeshore, where you can cool off with a refreshing dip or even hop on a floating sauna cruise. Winter brings snowy magic and short days, while summer offers endless daylight – perfect for forest hikes, kayaking, paddleboarding and dreamy, midnight-sun cruises.  

What’s the accommodation like? 

There’s something for every budget and style. Stay at cosy, traditional-style Boutique Hotel Yöpuu, or travel 30 miles from Jyväskylä to Revontuli Lakeland Village, where hotel rooms, chalets and glass-roofed igloo cabins sit quietly among the forest and lakes.  

If you prefer a city vibe, there are modern hotels right in the centre. I love my stay at Lapland Hotels Arena in Tampere – my room has its own private sauna and is a short walk from restaurants, museums, lakes, and forest trails.  

What to eat in Finland's Lakeland? 

Mornings start with vitamin-packed berries – in juices, smoothies or spooned over porridge – plus hearty rye breads layered with butter, cream cheese, smoked salmon or cured meats. Don’t miss vispipuuro – a fluffy, berry-whipped semolina porridge.  

For lunch, look out for creamy salmon, potato and dill soup, or a warm Karelian pie (thin rye pastries filled with rice or potato). Salmon appears at almost every meal, alongside pickled lake fish. Reindeer is a must-try – it’s mild and a bit like venison – served smoked, in comforting stews or as rich sausages.   

And don’t forget to treat yourself to cardamom doughnuts, chocolate liquorice and a glass of warming glögi (mulled wine).  

What is there to do? 

Finland’s lakes are made for exploring. Walk the trails with a winter guide who’ll fit you with cleats and enjoy fire-pit lunches where wood is provided. In summer, you can kayak, paddleboard and cruise the lake; in winter, cross-country skiing is magical. And, of course, saunas everywhere! Swimwear is worn in mixed public saunas, where you can chat, steam, dip into icy water or soak in a hot tub with lake views.   

What do I need to pack? 

In winter, bring thermals, waterproof boots, a hat and gloves. And definitely pack a swimsuit and flip-flops – trust me, you’ll want to sauna daily. 

Lasting memory 

Arriving to fresh snow, frozen lakes and silent forests – it feels like you’re stepping into a fairytale. And plunging into an icy lake after a blazing hot sauna. Literally breathtaking, it makes you feel wonderfully alive.