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Travel

Staycation: The Crown, Stoke-by-Nayland

by Susan Gray
Staycation: The Crown, Stoke-by-Nayland
Image: Emma-Cabielles

For Constable 250, I round up three art-loving friends to spend two days in Dedham Vale on the Essex-Suffolk border, exploring the landscape that inspired the famous paintings, enjoying exhibitions marking this milestone in British art, and staying at The Crown, a village pub with rooms in the heart of Constable Country.

Where is it? 

This 17th-century inn is in picturesque Stoke-by-Nayland in Suffolk, between the rivers Stour and Box and within the Dedham Vale National Landscape. It’s close to Sudbury – trains from London take about 1 hour 45 minutes, then it’s a short car ride. Driving from London takes about two hours. 

What’s the accommodation like? 

There are 25 guest rooms, including period rooms, three luxury lodges behind the pub, and more contemporary rooms across the road at The Angel Inn. I’m in the Stables at the Angel – a timber-framed building with a tongue-and-groove front door. 

With a view of shrub-filled courtyards, my room oozes bucolic bliss, painted in dove grey with splashes of pale lemon. After an afternoon’s walking, I fall upon the tea tray laid with china, Birchall Tea and Border Biscuits. (There’s also a Nespresso machine.) 

The bathroom has Connock toiletries in the British company’s Verdant fragrance, along with fluffy towels stacked high, a walk-in shower and a roll-top bath. 

What did you eat and drink? 

A menu of finessed pub classics packs out The Crown’s eclectic dining spaces, which are furnished with wooden settles and wicker chairs.  

My friends Tara and Marie go for haddock and chips – a sweet spot of crunchy beer batter and white fish – while Rob’s steak-and-ale pie is made from Norfolk beef and comes with mash and spring greens. I start with roasted butternut squash and pine nuts, with pan-roasted cod – landed at Lowestoft – to follow.  

Fish and chips at The Crown. Image: Jess Simms
Fish and chips at The Crown. Image: Jess Simms

We wash it all down with a bottle of Le Benjamin, a zippy bordeaux, and share two desserts, where curd foils the sweetness of tarte tatin and chocolate fondant.  

At breakfast, wild mushrooms with wilted spinach taste dense and earthy. Granola, pastries and preserves feature on the farmhouse breakfast table, with slabs of local ham and Suffolk cheese. The local cheese is much improved from the days of the notorious ‘Suffolk bang’: made from doubly skimmed milk, and so hard that Samuel Pepys complained about it in his diary. 

What is there to do? 

It’s like being in a Constable painting: we glide in a boat on the Stour from Flatford Mill to Dedham, passing Willy Lott’s waterside cottage and glimpsing the flint tower of Dedham’s church over the trees. We also walk around East Bergholt, where the painter grew up, visiting the family grave in the churchyard.  

The River Stour at Dedham. Image: Getty Images
The River Stour at Dedham. Image: Getty Images

At Christchurch Mansion, Ipswich, we see an exhibition anticipating the arrival of Constable’s masterpiece The Hay Wain (1821) in Suffolk for the first time. And at Thomas Gainsborough’s House in Sudbury, we learn how the painter blended Dutch landscape techniques with the features of his native Stour Valley, creating the British landscape tradition continued by Constable. 

Lasting memory 

An early-morning walk to St Mary’s, Stoke-by-Nayland, opening the church’s late-medieval carved oak doors and stepping into the silent interior. 

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip 

Dedham Vale is cream-tea central. But the spread at the Munnings Art Museum Tea Room is next level, with carrot and coffee cake served in the garden with views over horse-grazed fields. 

How to book

B&B at The Crown, Stoke-by-Nayland, costs from £144 in a double room for two – visit crowninn.net. 

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