Rebecca Pitcairn visits Swinton Park where an estate-to-plate ethos is turning heads 

Where is it? 

North Yorkshire might seem like it’s a schlep but, in fact, it’s only 2.5 hours by train from London to Northallerton Station and then a short drive to the edge of the Nidderdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and the iron gates which welcome you to Swinton Park. The estate, and the bewitching castle at its centre, have been in the Cunliffe-Lister family since the 1880s but were only transformed into a hotel by the current Earl of Swinton, Mark Cunliffe-Lister, and his wife, Felicity, in 2001.  

What’s the accommodation like? 

From glamping and treehouses at the Bivouac to self-catering cottages and stately rooms in the castle (you can even stay in the turret), just like the plethora of activities on offer here, you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to where you lay your head. I stayed in a suite on the second floor of the castle, with views of the lake and across to the deer park. Felicity oversees the decor and her impeccable eye for design and delicate attention to detail ensures each bedroom feels warm and cosy, despite the grand surroundings guests find themselves in.  

What did you eat and drink? 

Our evening meal was courtesy of Josh Barnes, former head chef at Galvin La Chapell, who since joining Swinton and opening Chef’s Table, in March 2024, has achieved Michelin guide status and three AA rosettes. From Wednesday to Saturday, the Swinton Cookery School is devoted to his weekly changing tasting menu, which features food hunted and foraged on the estate that he has interpreted into creative and experimental dishes that stay with you. The intimate setting of just 12 diners seated around his workspace means there is nowhere to hide and he confidently serves dishes that shock, surprise and delight. My highlights included Duck Dashi with Gooseberries and Lilibet Blue Cheese, Confit Duck Leg with Beetroot Liquor that had Crispy Chilli Beef vibes and a Smokey Sea Bream Ceviche ball, which took me back to my teenager years smoking behind the bike sheds. Wine pairings from sommelier, Shannon Buckley, are equally memorable – a Hermandad Argentinian Chardonnay 2021 served alongside the Duck Dashi made a particular impression on me. For hotel guests, breakfast is usually served in Samuel’s (the castle’s former ballroom) and is focused on classic British dining and there is also The Terrace, serving salads and seasonal small plates, situated next to the Country club, and a cafe for glampers at Swinton Bivouac.   

Wherever you dine the estate to plate ethos shines through with produce sourced from the walled garden or hunted and foraged for on the wider estate.  

What is there to do? 

What isn’t there to do? With an area almost double the size of Manhattan (the entire estate is 20,000 acres), there’s an abundance of outdoor pursuits from clay pigeon shooting to cycling, golf and fly fishing. There’s also a country club and spa so book yourself in for a massage to ease those post-shoot muscles or take a relaxing dip; there’s a heated indoor or natural outdoor pool as well as a wild swimming lake if you’re feeling brave. We took the plunge and found it immensely invigorating. Foodies will love the cookery school, which offers a programme of courses from Middle Eastern to Mexican with sessions for kids too. We took part in the estate to plate course with tutor Ian Matfin, who taught us how to make the most of asparagus from the kitchen garden – thought to be the largest of its kind in the UK – Rainbow Trout from the nearby River Ure and venison from the wider estate.   

What do I need to pack?  

Walking boots so you can explore, although they do have wellies you can borrow – they also provide jackets in your room should you forget an extra layer. A swimming costume and beach or jelly shoes are also a good idea should you want to go wild swimming. And an elasticated waistband because you’re likely to eat A LOT.  

Lasting memory 

The Chef’s Table experience will stay with me but learning to fillet a fish for the first time in my 40s is something both I and my former fishmonger father-in-law are particularly proud of.  

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip 

Book an estate tour with ranger Jack, to set the scene and get your bearings – 20,000 acres is quite hard to get your head around. And pop along to the market town of Masham, which sits on the edge of the estate, where you’ll find many businesses that provide food and products to the hotel.