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Travel

Staycation: Grove of Narberth, Pembrokeshire

by Anttoni James Numminen
Staycation: Grove of Narberth, Pembrokeshire
Credit: Thomas Bown

Surfing and seaweed supper go hand-in-hand at Grove of Narberth in Pembrokeshire, as Anttoni James Numminen discovers the many natural and culinary delights that South Wales has to offer.

Where is it?

Located in scenic South Wales, Grove of Narberth sits outside the town of Narberth in Pembrokeshire. Around two hours away from Cardiff by train or car and five hours from central London by train or driving. From the single-platform station in Narberth, it’s a 10 minute taxi drive to the country hotel.

Anttoni and the ancient Pentre Ifan stones
Anttoni and the ancient Pentre Ifan stones

What’s the accommodation like?

Each room has been individually designed to incorporate Welsh culture and art alongside modern comforts and luxury and a variety of unique rooms and suites offer consistent elegance. The old country buildings have been lovingly restored with a classy mix of antiques and modern conveniences.

Lying in my huge four poster bed in the 15th century Longhouse - Grove’s original building - it was hard to choose whether to look out at the Preseli hills, to make use of the massive TV, or to grab a drink from the well-stocked minibar.

After a day of exploring the countryside I appreciated having the option of either a long soak in the bathtub – bath salts were provided – or, in a separate space, a quick shower before dinner.

What did you eat and drink?

Despite the many culinary accolades won by Grove of Narberth, executive chef Douglas Balish has not rested on his laurels.

The hotel has a diverse seasonal offering entwined with its philosophy of sustainability and working with local producers - a winning combination.

Dining at the relaxed Artisan brasserie, I tucked into a starter of fresh squid and cherry tomatoes with a delightfully Mediterranean flavour, while the main course of tender and juicy duck leg with potato rosti was one of the best duck dishes I’ve ever had.

The five-course tasting menu at the fine dining Fernery, which holds 4 AA Rosettes, is impressive in its detail and delivery, but not intimidating.

The ‘Atlantic Edge’ dish – made of a light, frothy mousse from cooked local oysters and scallops around a piece of buttery, fresh turbot wrapped in nori seaweed – epitomised how local ingredients could be elevated while staying true to their terroir.

In addition to the brilliant wine pairings, sommelier Cathryn Bell has crafted an exceptional alcohol-free pairing largely made from herbs and produce from the hotel’s garden.

Despite being a lover of wine, I found the NA-options to surpass the wine in many cases, especially as the watermelon, apple, dill and horseradish drink served with the turbot.

I found the breakfast offering particularly refreshing and while the classics are available, curiosity is rewarded.

The indulgent smoked haddock omelette with parmesan and rich hollandaise sauce on crispy laverbread was the perfect way to start the day in such sumptuous surroundings.

The 'delightful' fresh squid starter
The 'delightful' fresh squid starter

What is there to do?

Stroll through the woodland estate and explore the on-site ‘secret garden’ that provides fresh produce for the kitchen, or enjoy an al fresco afternoon tea under the apple trees.

Before dinner, retire to the drawing room for a fireside aperitif.

Nearby Narberth has a variety of independent shops and cafés perfect for an afternoon outing, while the hotel has partnered with VIP Wales to offer tailor-made activities from hiking trips to tours of fishing villages.

What do I need to pack?

Bring comfortable shoes for outdoorsy activities and a towel and swimming costume if you plan on braving a dip in the sea.

Lasting memory

Relaxing in the lush green garden with a glass of light Lebanese rosé after a day of surfing, while the sunset sparkled on the lake.

Sainsbury’s magazine insider tip

Get out and about in the stunning countryside to explore Pembrokeshire’s nature and history, whether on an e-bike from the hotel or by car, and be sure to ask for a picnic packed by the kitchen at Grove – you won’t be disappointed.

How to book

Stays at Grove of Narberth start from £260 and can be booked at grovenarberth.co.uk

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