Food
Taking Orders: The Elizabeth, Belgravia review
by Helena Lang
We're big fans of Michelin-starred chef Anthony Demetre's cooking, so were intrigued by his influence as culinary director of The Elizabeth where he has worked with head chef David Halewood on a menu that celebrates British ingredients and classic Franco British cooking.
Where is it?
On the corner of Ebury Street in Belgravia – one of the capital's poshest districts – stands this pretty pub and dining room, conveniently close to Victoria Station and handy for those commuting and visiting London for the day.
What's the place like?
Completely unpretentious. There are some handy tables outside for dining alfresco, while inside there's a light, bright bar area at the front and a more intimate dining area at the rear. The decor in the dining room is trés French brasserie, all dark leather banquettes, red walls and wooden chairs, and was busy with couples, old friends and families all tucking into the classic, reasonably priced fare.
What did you eat and drink?
It had been a trying day, so clearly trying a cocktail was in order. One of the house martinis – 'The QEC', a blend of Lillet, Sapling gin and Chartreuse – hit the spot beautifully. Some first-rate sourdough – from the celebrated Toklas bakery at Embankment – with a slab of cultured butter sustained us while we perused the menu.
We shared our starters, a beautifully vibrant and eclectic winter salad of Italian leaves, pulses and roasted vegetables delicately coated in a sweet spice vinaigrette, and a dish of Morecambe Bay potted shrimp, done 'our way' – smeared on the sourdough – was utterly delicious.
For my main course I chose a lighter dish – sea bream – that came as a well-seasoned fillet with a dollop of piperade (again done 'our way') and a splash of bouillabaisse sauce. All expertly cooked.
More exciting were the desserts. The classic lemon tart was a slice of bittersweet perfection served with a sliver of confit lemon and lashings of thick cream. The rum baba was a rare treat, not too boozy, sweet and moreish. We polished off every mouthful.
The verdict
It's often so hard to find good, well-priced food in this neck of the woods where chains dominate near Victoria Station or restaurants are aimed at the high-living, super-spending Belgravia natives, so we predict The Elizabeth will do well.
How to Book
Visit The Elizabeth