Food
Taking Orders: The Ninth, London
by Helena Lang
If you’re seeking excellent Mediterranean-style cooking, using fresh, seasonal ingredients in a friendly, intimate restaurant with a laid-back local vibe and perfectly situated in London’s West End, then good luck… unless you book a table at this wonderfully off-the-radar place.
Where is it?
In Charlotte Street, tucked behind Oxford Street and Tottenham Court Road. Just minutes from the crowded shops and busy alleyways.
What's all the fuss about?
No fuss. Just calm, hugely capable cooking, an experienced team and a captive clientele who appreciate the finer things in life without the drama. Full of grown-up family groups, couples on date nights and work colleagues from the surrounding design, music and media businesses.
What's the place like?
Warm and inviting with smart wooden flooring, dark walls, perfect lining and a chic little bar area – a real ambience of unflashy luxury.
What did you eat and drink?
Whenever I see a stuffed courgette flower on any menu it’s a must-order for me. The season is short and the skill-level is high, and this one didn’t disappoint – the crispy light batter was like a chiffon coat over the flower that was stuffed with a creamy house-made ricotta, and the wild garlic sauce was the perfect accompaniment. My guest’s Jerusalem artichoke and mushroom risotto also saw skilful cooking with creamy al dente rice and a deep flavour from the mushrooms and vegetables. We fought over the last spoonful.
We both chose meaty main courses, and although his Iberico pork was delicious and pretty to look at with its slivers of courgette and pickled radish, we both agreed my beautifully cooked smoked duck breast was the dish of the night – the meat just the right side of pink, generous in portion and perfectly pitched with its bittersweet cherry and red chicory accents. Side dishes of chunky cubes of potatoes cooked to a crisp and served with a piquant tomato aioli and some chargilled hispi cabbage completed our meal, although I did manage a poached white peach with yogurt ice cream for dessert. All in the name of research of course.
Your verdict
This is a restaurant for your little black book, for when you want to treat and surprise someone special.
Lasting memory
Slicing into that smoked duck breast and savouring it’s rich, meaty, fruity flavours.
How to book
Visit The Ninth London.