Helena Lang grew up near Hitchin, and back in the day the most gastronomic thing any of the local pubs served was a bag of pork scratchings. Now the lucky local foodies have The Cock to dine in, a beautifully and sensitively restored inn serving excellent food in a warm and friendly environment. 

Where is it?

Bang in the centre of town at 8, High Street near the busy local market and local riverside walks. 

What's all the fuss about?

Hitchin itself is an interesting town with a long history – it’s been a named settlement since the 7^th century, when a tribe called the Hicce lived there. Of course, The Cock wasn’t the local of choice back then; it was built as a coaching inn around 1563 and, in fact, the High Street where it’s situated was originally called Cock Street in its honour. The inn has used the traditional animal symbol, but it was actually named after a local nobleman – although there was a cockpit (used for fighting birds) at the back of the pub at some point in its history. 

What's the place like?

Nowadays, after a recent and expensive refurbishment, the original details (the building is listed) have been exposed and enhanced and the room has a smart, cosy bar at the front and a long, stylish dining room at the rear. The team have emphasised the legacy panelling in a deep charcoal grey, there are a variety of tables with chair and booth seating and a smart wooden floor. It’s traditional with slick modern touches. 

What did you eat and drink?

In full disclosure, I treated – or rather the team did – my parents, as they had had dinner at The Cock on the night of their wedding a full 65 years previously and hadn’t been back since. That won’t be the case now, as the kitchen is sending out truly excellent gastro-pub fare with everything, including the bread and the ice-cream, made in house. 

Adam, the friendly and helpful restaurant manager, persuaded us to munch on a bowl of beef fat potato terrine chips, with a horseradish and mustard drizzle with a glass of fizz. These were gorgeous, crispy layers of potatoes cut into large chips and deep fried. Not for dieters, but a great snack whilst we perused the menu.  

For starters I ordered the scallop – hand-dived from Orkney – a plump and juicy morsel with a seeded crust for texture and in the most sublime, lightly spiced curry sauce. Excellent for mopping with the homemade wholemeal. Dad chose the same, but Mum, who has a seafood allergy, opted for the honey and balsamic heritage carrots, a very pretty plate garnished with macadamia nut, apricot and goat’s cheese. She loved it. 

My main course was a perfectly tender lamb saddle, sliced and served pink with peas, wild garlic, goat's curd and a rich and delicious lamb sauce. Mum ordered the 50-day aged beef, a generous portion on a bed of smooth mashed potato with roasted onion and a smoked bone-marrow sauce. Dad fancied fish, so ordered the pan-roasted Cornish hake, which was served on a bed of buttery leeks, with a positively healthy sea herb salad on the side and a roast crab sauce. 

We were more restrained with the puds and ordered two between the three of us. An elegant slice of olive oil pistachio cake with a topping of chocolate cream and a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream. This was overshadowed, however, by the completely delightful strawberry tart, a pastry base so crisp that Mary Berry would have approved of it, smothered in a rich and creamy vanilla custard, topped with the sweetest British berries and a scoop of crème fraiche ice cream scattered with almonds.  

There’s a great wine list with plenty of unusual wines available by the glass, craft ales and local brews and a good cocktail list too. 

Your verdict?

I wish I lived around the corner from The Cock; it’s a great place for a romantic supper, a let’s-spoil-ourselves meal with friends, or a leisurely weekend lunch. Absolutely excellent food served with a smile wins full marks from me. 

Lasting memory

The tender lamb saddle could be my desert island dish, although the strawberry tart would give it a good run for its money.