As a lover of Thai food Helena Lang was looking forward to a dinner full of punchy, fiery flavours and the freshest ingredients – would Platapian deliver? 

Where is it?

On Greek Street in London’s Soho at the edges of theatreland and perfectly paced for a post-West End shopping trip supper. 

What's all the fuss about?

Platapian is a new restaurant from Nam Parama Raiva, the youngest member of a Thai culinary and Patara brand restaurant-owning dynasty. This new opening is in a former Patara restaurant and sees the young restaurateur taking on the reins from her aunt, Khun Patara Sila-On. It seems like the whole of Thai-food-loving London has been waiting with bated breath to taste the results and see whether the brand’s legacy has been continued. 

What did you eat and drink?

It has been a long day, so my tom yum-tini was a great way to mark the end of work and kickstart the evening. Short, spicy and delicious – it really hit the spot. My guest and I chose a couple of starters to share, deciding to skip the snacks that I always find fill me up too much before the main part of the meal. A plate of spicy tuna crudo was light and packed with lemongrass and fresh chilli flavours. Some juicy grilled chicken skewers came with a saam glur marinade and sauce that was rich in deep umami flavour from garlic, coriander root and peppercorns. I would have been happy with a plate of these for my whole supper. 

Instead, I had chosen a lamb shank massaman for my main course – this was a huge portion of falling-off-the-bone meat, soft and unctuous, in a thick, spicy, coconut sauce. Absolutely delicious and I earned food-envy from my guest who had plumped for the braised beef green curry – and I think felt a bit short-changed when he saw my dish. A big platter of fresh green morning glory, heaving with garlic, at least helped us feel we were doing something to combat the gluttony elsewhere. 

The biggest surprise was the desert a southern-style roti – crisp and flaky, under a bed of sliced banana and Petchaburi coconut caramel. Possibly the best pudding I have eaten all year and yet the least pretentious or fussy.   

The cocktail list deserves a second (or third?) visit, with a Thai twist on many classics such as a Thai coffee with Hennessy cognac, rum, condensed milk and coffee or a pak preaw margarita with the Thai coriander herb added to the traditional ingredients. There is also a good selection of wines by the glass, plenty for those who don’t drink alcohol and a tempting array of herbal teas for after your meal. 

Your verdict?

Palatpian will do very well partially due to its location, but also because the new brand and restaurant makeover will attract in a younger crowd wanting to revisit the flavours of their gap year trips – albeit at West End prices. 

Lasting memory

The roti dessert – it’s so rare to find such a delicious pudding in London’s South East Asian restaurants.