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This hotel restaurant isn't heaving with atmosphere but does serve some of the best fish dishes in London says Helena Lang, Sainsbury's magazine's editor-in-chief.

What is it?

A slick, sleek homage to the 1990s, this restaurant goes under the radar for foodies – it's not hip, cool or trendy, but it does serve really very special food under the guidance of head chef Pascal Proyart.

Where is it?

On the ground floor of The Park Tower Knightsbridge within walking distance of Harvey Nicks.

Who would love it?

Perfect for couples and illicit romance, this place is discreet and off the beaten track. As with many hotel restaurants, deep wallets are required, but the food is still excellent value for money as the quality of the ingredients, and the skills in the kitchen shine through.

What's the signature dish?

You should be a seafood lover to get the most out of this dining experience and Proyat's inventive way with fish brings the taste of the ocean to the front of what look like complicated dishes. The King Crab Royale starter, created to celebrate the Queen's birthday, was a triumph of tender white crab meat, white asparagus and caviar with gold leaf. My main course of cod, prawns, Paimpol coco beans cassoulet, truffle and parsley béarnaise (£28) was simply perfect – it looked casual and effortless but there were layers and layers of flavour. For dessert I enjoyed a lemon posset with passion fruit, raspberry, Champagne jelly and sorbet (£8)

Next time I would order....

The whole seabass baked in Guerande sea salt with saffron fennel barigoule, £52 for two people – sold out the night we visited, but it looked scrumptious.

oneoonerestaurant.com

 

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