The gentle update of this Victorian house hotel, cast in the dramatic Welsh landscapes of Eryri National Park, has helped its cosy quarters and dining setting flourish.

It’s not just the family selling their hotel who may have sleepless nights about how the new owners may change the property, but regular guests who count it as their favourite retreat could feel a bit uneasy, too. There must have been a collective sigh of relief when the beautiful country house hotel Penmaenuchaf, located just outside the small Welsh town of Dolgellau with Snowdonia National Park (now known by its Welsh name, Eryri) on its doorstep, was bought by the Seren Group in 2022. Neil and Zoe Kedward, owners of Seren, are renowned for sympathetic renovations, and the update of this stunning 14-room hotel – set in 21 acres of picturesque land and gardens – is in keeping with its Victorian heritage.

Interior designer Nicola Harding has already worked her magic on the top floors, with opulent fabrics and wallpapers. It’s all subtly colourful and pretty. In our Mawddach Suite, the enormous bed had a velvet covered headboard as well as extravagant drapes, beautiful bedding and a Welsh-style quilt. Comfort is a core consideration, and the sofa under the picture window was the perfect place for some serious hillside gazing. The living room area had a set of comfy armchairs where you could cosy up with a coffee made from compostable pods, while flicking through the in-room copy of The Mabinogion (early Welsh stories). This is one of the hotel’s biggest rooms, and the bathroom was suitably large, too, with the shower and toilet separated off behind doors. Luxurious and ethical Welsh Goodwash toiletries were in generous supply.

The hotel is keen to link up with local businesses. The reception hall has a beautiful natural flower arrangement by the neighbouring florist, they serve Welsh gin and source as much as they can locally. Food-wise, head chef Tom Hine, originally from Cornwall, buys the best Welsh black beef and local lamb. The sea bass from nearby Barmouth is so fresh they’re practically flipping around. Milk, butter and cheese are also star local ingredients. The kitchen and dining area is another part of the hotel that’s been refurbished. They’ve doubled the size of the kitchen, which now has doors that open into the dining area. The design creates an atmospheric vibe with the downlights over the kitchen pass providing us with a backdrop of the chefs quietly at work. The new kitchen has ample space for Tom’s brigade to create the six-course tasting menu (£89) and three-course a la carte (£74).

The food is delicately prepared but has robust flavours. The two styles of menus are good for alternating over a weekend stay, plus there’s a delicious bar menu, which you can enjoy in the lounge or one of the smaller rooms off it. It’s easy to just stay put and relax, but you’d be missing out on spectacular walks nearby. We set out on to the nearby Mawddach Trail – a nine-mile flat route along former rail tracks into the coastal town Barmouth. You could also hire bikes in Dolgellau and cycle along it. There are so many outdoor excursions, you’ll want to come back, especially given the warmest welcome and hospitality in the hillsides at Penmaenuchaf.