Tucking into a great steak is one of life’s simple pleasures but it can be hard to find in the centre of the capital. Helena Lang recommends heading to Goodman  - a New York style grill in the heart of the West End for a beefy feast with side dishes galore.

Where is it?

There are three branches of Goodman in London, one in the City, one in Canary Wharf, and this their original and first London outpost in Mayfair.

What’s all the fuss about?

If I am going to eat steak, I want it to be a good one. I want to know where it’s come from, what it was fed on and how it’s ended up on my plate. At Goodman they take their steak seriously. As well as the classic steaks on the menu, there is a ‘for this night only’ selection called The Cut, presented on a black board that features the steak they have that has reached perfection in terms of maturity. There is respect for the animal, the way it’s produced and the cooking.

What’s the place like?

Buzzing on the midweek, with many regulars hitting their favourite tables after a hard day’s work. It’s very New York grill in style – lots of dark wood, a long bar, red leather chairs and warm service. I was lucky enough to get a peek in the basement kitchen where the team of chefs have a choice of cuts hanging in the specialist beef fridge all ageing beautifully, and several sizzling Josper grills where they skilfully cook each steak to order, serving it just like the customer wants it.

What did you eat and drink?

Errr, steak? However the menu offers so much more than that. Our starters were excellent; mine the Prawn Tempura, five large prawns in a crispy tempura batter, but meaty and tender inside served on dollops of spicy gochujang mayo, with a pile of creamy avocado to offset the spice. My husband’s large Devon scallops, served in their shells, had been seared in a hot pan and came with celeriac purée and in a gentle, truffled chicken broth.

When it came to our steaks we chose from The Cut, the Goodman blackboard that tells customers which cuts are at their absolute peak that day. We both chose grass fed beef from The Lake District (there is American and Australian steak also on offer); mine, a ribeye, and my husband’s a fillet, both medium rare and perfectly charred on the outside and meltingly tender within. Just writing about them now is making my mouth water! Alongside these we had a generous portion of hand cut chips, some mashed potatoes too, with brown butter and sage.

The bowl of carrots had been spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg and scattered with chopped walnuts and dates whilst the spinach was sprinkled with garlic and chilli. It was all delicious and plentiful – enough for a doggy box to take home and enjoy the next evening. I did also manage a dessert, all in the name of research of course, and the Honeycomb Parfait didn’t disappoint. Layers of creamy pudding, with chunks of honeycomb rippled through, topped with chocolate and a scoop of banana sorbet. All drizzled with chocolate sauce. There’s an excellent selection of wines by the glass and I enjoyed the 2022 Salt River Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa whilst my husband, who prefers reds, sipped a 2019 Les Cornuds Vinsobres from the Southern Rhone in France.

Your verdict?

It’s so hard to find good food in the centre of London, particularly if you’ve had a long day shopping, or been to see a show. Goodman is a great choice if you want to avoid the obvious tourist traps with great food, well cooked, in a warm atmosphere. Highly recommended.

Lasting memory?

Slicing into that juicy ribeye steak.