Corned beef won’t ever get an award for the most elegant or visually appealing ingredient, but it has stood the test of time for good reason. The practice of salt-curing beef to preserve it goes back centuries, and during the first and second world wars tinned corned beef or ‘bully beef’ – ‘bully’ being derived from the French word ‘bouilli’, meaning ‘boiled’ – was a staple ration for British soldiers due to its long shelf life. It’s a storecupboard staple that’s affordable and endlessly adaptable, from slices for your sandwiches to cubes for a hearty hash. In Jamaica, it’s transformed into a speedy stew by simmering the crumbled beef with peppers, herbs, ketchup for sweetness and a Scotch bonnet for warmth – finely chop the chilli if you really want the spice.
