Sharon Parsons heads to this lush corner of Ireland to discover a food-lover’s paradise – and fulfil along-held ambition while she’s there...

Many years ago, a boyfriend’s lovely Irish mammy presented me with a cookery book called Simply Delicious. It was by Darina Allen, the cook and founder of the Ballymaloe Cookery School in County Cork, and while my romance didn’t last, Darina and I did: over the next decade, her book became ever more splattered and battered as I followed her recipes, often writing in the note pages at the back.

When my treasured copy disappeared during a chaotic house move, I was dismayed, but never replaced it with a new one: somehow it would not have been the same... Now, several decades later, I can’t quite believe that I’m at Ballymaloe, telling this tale to the lady herself. Darina listens patiently, even though she has, no doubt, heard glowing accounts of her culinary influence many times before. For she is recognised as Ireland’s leading food ambassador: a pioneer of the country’s slow food movement and passionate campaigner for local produce, as well as a teacher, a writer, a celebrity chef, and so much more.

Darina is always associated, of course, with Ballymaloe – an international beacon of culinary excellence and hospitality. The legend began 58 years ago when her mother-in-law placed an advert in the local paper inviting people to ‘dine in an Irish country house’. Myrtle Allen cooked using only the best fresh, seasonal produce from the family farm, or sourced from nearby land and sea. From such modest beginnings, an award-winning hotel and restaurant, then later a cookery school, was born, all founded on exactly the same principles.

Ballymaloe is intrinsic to the culinary scene in Cork, but this south-west county – the largest in Ireland – has a big foodie heart. The patchwork of verdant green pastures and rolling hills, bound on one side by the Atlantic, has long been associated with superb dairy produce and livestock (back in the day, Cork traded butter and beef worldwide). Today, this provenance draws a wealth of committed producers, suppliers and artisans from both Ireland and much further afield: restaurants, cafes, pubs, food trucks, farmers’ markets, pop-ups and more celebrate the best this region has to offer.  

There is much to discover here, but on our short break we choose to keep it simple with a trio of easily accessible highlights. First, there’s the buzzing city of Cork itself. A 25-minute drive from the airport means that within the hour, we are enjoying a light bite on the gorgeous terrace of The Montenotte Hotel before heading out to explore. The city centre is actually on an island in the middle of the River Lee, connected by myriad bridges, and centuries ago was no more than a swampy trading post.

It’s easy to navigate with history-laden streets, squares and quarters all punctuated with an abundance of tempting eateries and, of course, traditional Irish pubs, should you fancy a pint of Beamish or Murphy’s stout or perhaps a shot of Jameson whiskey (the famous distillery is at Midleton in east Cork). 

Any foodie who knows their onions, will, of course, make a beeline for the famous 18th-century covered English Market in Cork city. Our guide, Maire Ní Mhurchu (oldbutterroads.ie), chats away to the friendly stallholders as we wind our way through the organised chaos, sampling everything from artisan cheese to smoked salmon. We stop for some lively banter at K O’Connell the fishmongers and my partner bravely admits to not being a fish lover. The men serving reel back in mock horror. ‘What!’ one roars in his sing-song Corkonian accent. ‘Will you get out of here this moment!’

Another short drive through this lush region brings us to the harbour town of Kinsale, hailed as the gourmet capital of Ireland. We take a tasting tour with Suzanne Burns (kinsalefoodtours.com) and quickly find out why. As we wander the pretty streets, she explains its fascinating history, making leisurely stops for us to sample some of the fantastic fare on offer – from fluffy pancakes to delicious deli treats, fishy delights to mind-blowing artisan chocolates... it’s no wonder we were warned to come hungry!

You’d think we might have had our fill by now... but no. After checking into the ultra-stylish Giles Norman Townhouse, we head for dinner at the tiny, quirky Saint Francis Provisions. This offers a mix-and-match informal menu, and the dishes, all championing local produce, are intriguing. Everything we order is greeted with an enthusiastic ‘Yesss!’ by owner Barbara Nealon, as if we’ve made the best choice in the world (and actually from the moment we sample the salt-crusted house focaccia dipped into a punchy romesco sauce, we rather think we have). Soft rain patters on the canopy outside, candles flicker, neighbouring tables chat companionably... nobody is talking about diets.

Finally, we arrive at Ballymaloe House in Shanagarry – somewhere I’ve longed to visit since I first opened that little cookbook. Still very much a family concern, the hotel is as relaxed and welcoming as I’d always hoped. Laughter drifts up from the hall; youngsters in the enormous Allen clan arrive to splash in the outdoor pool; returning guests are greeted with genuine warmth.

The five-course dinner is, of course, a highlight, with everything prepared using as much as possible from Ballymaloe’s own farm and garden: even the simple clear chicken, ginger and watercress broth I choose to begin is so brimful of flavour, I put my spoon down in quiet amazement! We’re seated in the original dining room – the alcove at one end was originally Mrs Allen’s kitchen – and everyone, from guests to hard-working team, seem so happy to be here. Especially me.

The next day, we visit Ballymaloe Cookery School, set within 100 acres of organic farm, fruit and vegetable gardens: we’re lucky enough to be invited to watch the cook Rachel Allen, married to Darina’s son, Isaac, demonstrate countless delicious dishes to the enthusiastic residential students that afternoon. Needless to say, by the time we’ve sampled everything she’s so effortlessly created, I’m ready to sign up for a course myself... Sadly, however, it’s time to leave, but before we go there’s something I need to do. I pop into the little Ballymaloe shop where I find an updated version of Darina Allen’s original cookbook to take home. It’s like being reunited with an old friend.